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Post Info TOPIC: Fibreglass & gearbox
Joachim Sverd

Date:
Fibreglass & gearbox
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Does anyone know how to avoid stresscracks in (old) fibreglass? The material used in these cars is closing in on fifty yrs of age and is brittle and probably doesn't work that well with modern resin. Has anyone done any research on this?


Is it possible to mate a tr/peerless gearbox to a triumph straight six?


I have been toying with the idea of putting one in, perhaps moving the battery to the boot and putting the heater in the battery tray.


Any comments/ideas?


Joachim Sverd 



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nigel c

Date:
RE: Fibreglass & gearbox
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Hi Joachim,


If you work "clean" with GRP its fine. That is to say keep all your tools clean between jobs, do not mix resin in dirty pots, all old GRP MUST be dry clean and contaminate free.


Some people seem to think over the years they can put a coat of under seal/body protect ant to smarten up their old car, or repair GRP damage with Aluminum or steel! All This must all be removed. If you have a good local supplier of all things GRP they should be able to give you help and info.


Replacing the engine with a straight six.


I have seen it done but only in a wreck that had not been finished.


To put a six engine into a Peerless using the original TR3 engine I don’t know but I have contacted a man who does and he will ring me back hopefully with an answer. I must say it is usually the other way round as people can get “J type” TR6 gearboxes easier than “A type” TR3 gearboxes so I know you can do it that way round!


 


 



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Erik

Date:
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Hi Joachim,


 


The existing stresscracks are mainly in the gel-coat top layer of the bodywork panels.


They will all be visible after you’ve removed all the paint.


 


You can either grind the cracks out and fill them with polyester filler, or re-tissue the entire panel with a light woven fibre mat.


I’m going to choose the last option.


Although the original material is old, the modern resin attaches very good to it.


Preparation of the original material is very important, grind out cracks or old repairs widely, with a very rough grinder or sanding paper.


Also, do not buy the resin at a local hardware store, but always use professional stuff.


There are many ways of working up fibreglass and resin.


You can use the general fibre mat, or the woven mat, which are both available in different thicknesses.


You can also make a mixture of resin and “chopped strands”, for making fillets, or for filling small holes.


If the resin is used on vertical surfaces and likely to run, you can add “thixotropic” powder to make the resin more sticky.


You can also add 20% of glass powder to the resin to create better filling, or if added more glass powder you can make your own filler.


If you need to make small moulds or models, a hot gleu gun, in combination with thin aluminium, wood or cardboard, comes in very handy.


I’ll send you a few pics of repairs I’ve already made.


 


Good luck,


 

Erik

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