The Peerless & Warwick Discussion Forum

Gary S · Status: Offline

RE: Chassis #213 - A long project

nigel c · Status: Offline

DON'T go there Gary, he's messing with your Mellon... you go there and its straight down a rabbit hole for you and your loved ones, All we will see is your fluffy white tail disappearing and you'll never attempt anything ever again!

Dean · Status: Offline

Thank you Gary.

I admit I had to look up "resplendent" to see if I still wanted to correspond with you:)

re·splend·ent
/rsplend()nt/
adjective
attractive and impressive through being richly colorful or sumptuous.
"she was resplendent in a sea-green dress"

Dean · Status: Offline

A few official pics from the first day it moved on it's own..

wingleton · Status: Offline

Well done Dean. Looks and sounds great! The first drive is always a special moment.

Will

nigel c · Status: Offline

sound?

Frank · Status: Offline

Wow, yes the sound! Magnificent! Envy!

How much of that is down to the carbs rather than the exhaust box, and what camshaft and compression ratio are you running?

Frank

nigel c · Status: Offline

Dean wrote:
This was a major milestone and revealed just how much work is ahead to tune those SU DU6 carbs.
It is a running driving car that shifts, kind of goes and brakes without manual assistance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPrCoRf9Jxg
Yeah!
Dean

well I must have missed this part of the thread...FANTASTIC!

Dean · Status: Offline

Frank,

Sorry I missed your post. I installed 89mm bores, a 280 degree "torque grind" cam, uprated springs and removed .090 from the stock head. Didn't enlarge the valves or port the head.. It sounds healthy now, it was a little under the weather when I initially rolled it out. Calculates to about 10:1.

I took off the DU6 carbs as I just couldn't get it to stabilize under 3,000rpms. I think I would need to fabricate a balance tube, but I am leaving that for a later project. The stock carbs allowed me to break in the engine and hunt for bugs. I am still chasing a few.

The header tank and the thermostat housing are not ideally located. After the engine expels an inch of water half of the thermostat is partially exposed to air. I don't like this, so I am installing a remote header tank to ensure the top of the radiator and the thermostat stay submerged. The Warwick is the same, but I have a catch tank that sometimes allows the coolant to flow back to the engine, but most of the time I see it full when the engine is cold. Keeping the radiator cap seals working one would think is trivial, but they are such poor quality that they work for a few months and then develop a small leak.

Dean

Frank wrote:
Wow, yes the sound! Magnificent! Envy!
How much of that is down to the carbs rather than the exhaust box, and what camshaft and compression ratio are you running?
Frank

-- Edited by Dean on Saturday 16th of December 2023 04:45:16 AM

Frank · Status: Offline

Thanks. 280 degree cams are a popular choice over here, usually described as "fast road". However there is a lot of variation, lift, ramp angles and overlap also contribute significantly to the power (and sound). I guess that's why a Harley sounds like it does, and a lot of that is induction noise.

I must confess I'm slightly disappointed with my 280 cam. Engine is 87mm, ported, standard valves, with just a .020 skim (TR3 head). Lightened flywheel and balanced. I'd doesn't have the level of aggression or noise I expected, but don't want to lose simplicity and reliability.

So, did you lose the lovely noise when you went back to H6's? Do you miss it enough to go the DCOE route? And could you share the source, and perhaps some more detail of the cam you are using?

And have you seen the Land Rover discovery radiators we are using over here? Ian used one in the race V8 Warwick.

All alloy, includes oil cooler, no cooling issues, £120 new.

Thanks

Frank

nigel c · Status: Offline

header tanks, I think we talked about that Dean? I had a tank fabricated to hang off into the void of the wing fixed to the outer top angled tube leading to the back of the dash, next to the battery on a phase 2. filler neck is connected by a horizontal tube across the back/top of the battery box area. Filler cap is just along side the heater box next to the intake tube (see photo). feeds into the cross pipe that runs from the bottom of the heater to the back of the water pump. over flow goes into a catch tank with a clear side tube so I can see when its got/hasnt got water in. then overflow pipe to atmosphere.

This does give me a head of water above the thermostat housing hover, I think I should have angled the top face of the tank and also the cross filler tube as being level/square I'm now thinking this creates its own problems with air pockets.

I've bought a water pressure kit to test/pressurize the system to check for leaks etc, not cheap at £45-50 but has been invaluable finding leaks (as you can pressurizer the system when cold and the tell tail leak doesn't evaporate) and seemingly has made me very popular with friends with the same issues!

Dean · Status: Offline

Nigel,

I ended up with the same solution. Fabricated a tank from copper scrap and hung it above my pedal box. Need to take it for a good test drive before I declare success.

Dean

PS - Yes, I painted it black...

-- Edited by Dean on Sunday 17th of December 2023 10:30:45 PM

nigel c · Status: Offline

DOH, didn't think of the lhd issues!!! nice work as always Dean smile

Dean · Status: Offline

Frank,

Sorry I am so late in replying. I attached the cam specs from the manufacturer. I agree that 280 is not aggressive enough. With the H6 SU, standard valves yet headers and 89mm bores, it seems to run out of steam at 4,500rpm. I think I should have enlarged the valves. I am running the stock air cleaners, so I'll switch to ram horns and see if perhaps I am running out of air. The Warwick with larger valves, headers and H6s wants to wind the tach past 5,500.

I have almost 40 degrees of total advance. I can't possible need more.

Dean