About the rear wheelarches. As far as things where original on my car when i bought it, the arches in front of the rear wheels where screwed and riveted in place. I think it was done this way to be able to replace the fuel pipe hoses or clamps if needed. Otherwise it would be very hard to reach these components. The ones behind the rear wheels where originally laminated in place, with one thin layer of fibreglass. On my car, i have laminated these back in place with a bit more layers of fibreglass. This adds quite some ridgidity (?) to the rear bodywork.
Hope this helps, otherwise i have some pictures for you.
Rear window hinges? These are just a piano hinge (B&Q job, cut to length) Chrome plated brass if you are fussy about these things. The little countersunk BA screws into the corners of the window frame are about the only tricky bit. (Namrick.co.uk)
The original jacking point is at the "point of balance", a short way back from the "A" pillar.
If your chassis is sound, you should be able to jack it from almost anywhere, but the "corners" of the central section are the safest places, especially for axle stands. i.e Under the door hinge, and at the front of the rear spring. But: DON'T Jack it up using a trolley jack in the centre of the crossmember in front of the engine, especially when the engine's in, it is liable to buckle. It's useful to add a bit of reinforcing angle across the whole width of this, especially if someone else (garage, tyre fitter, etc) is liable to jack the car, because this is the obvious place to use. If this crossmember buckles, all of the front camber/castor angles will go with it!
Sounds like "project peerless" is well under way now!
Hi guys, Erik's right about the rear panels but I made all in one arches and glassed them in. Makes everything nice and ridged at the back misses. (Also allows you to put great big speakers in the side parcel shelf type thingies!)
one the jacking point area I must admit I use the front cross member under the engine. Although saying that this is a new chassis and I think the steel is of a good gauge. With a wide block of wood I dont have a problem. I then put axle stands directly behind the bump stop block that is welded to the chassis. This stops the car sliding down on the axle stand if you get a bit of a rakish angle on it whilst jacking it up further. At the back again I confess to jacking up on the rear box section under the boot lid handle...this I know is a stressful area but again it is sound and new and strong (unlike me!) I have advised people in the past not to use the original jacking points as I think they put a lot of stress on an old chassis.
Well Gary this all sounds very active..Keep it up and I'll buy you that beer at Le Mans yet!
The amount of beer owed/wagered on whether Gary gets his car to Le-Mans next year will build a substantial beermountain, I might need to start laying off some of the bets.
