Seasons greetings to the world of Peerless and Warwick.
I am asking for this info pre xmas as I know what my present from my parents will be as I had to get. Because it is what I need to look after my Warwick. Then over the Holiday I can start so work on the car. The present is a low entry height, long reach trolly jack. So the questions are where are the best points to jack up a Warwick and then place axel stands.
Hi Duncan, best place to jack up a Warwick is from underneath
I MUST stress that my chassis is new...all new and very well built and very strong and new and not rusty but strong and and and...you know what I mean.
They really are a difficult vehicle to jack up especially if the chassis is not sound.
Because of the low ground clearances and the major chassis rails are so far in you could have problems. If you have a local friendly garage with a ramp bung um a fiver and take it up and have a look, it could save you a lot of trouble.
I jack mine up from the front:
Push the trolley jack under the front apron centrally towards the front cross member directly in front of the engines sump.
This is a central point of the front suspension and evenly raises the front.
I then place two axle stands one on each base of the front suspension turret, there is a steel shape that comes down below the chassis rails were the rubber bump stop is bolted on.
I only use this area because it's accessible and my axle stands are large old style ones and they seem to fit here. I sometimes also put them behind this steel shape directly onto the two tubes that travel "nose to tail" as they cannot slip off.
And at the rear:
I push the trolley jack just under the rear boot lid handle, centrally again and jack up, I then place the axle stands on the "tail to nose tubes around the rear shackles of the springs or directly on the leaf spring plate that the 4no bolts go thru on their way to the de dion tube.
Jacking from this distance is not the best way but unless you’ve driven over a 30mm high air bag “you aint gona get any closer”. I MUST stress again that this 2”x2” tube that runs across the rear of my car is new and sound.
Grandmother/egg/suck:
Tell someone what your going to do, just in case you get stuck, better still have a “garage buddy” around, mine is great, he has a great sense of humour, a sharp eye and lives next door. Trouble is he drinks my beer as well
This only my view and I’m sure there are others out there that do things differently, well until the European union/health and safety tw+ts find out and then it will all change
Thank you for that info. I will take all points in and use wisely. I am lucky to work at a garage and have access to ramps and pits ( pit here is a bit tricky as it is Truck size width. I have done it but need many eyes watching not to be done on ones own). but if the car is unwell then tricky to get here. That is why I have brought this trolly jack.I had survyed the market as my standard "used for years now seen in all shops at £15.99 is to high entry and cant reach in far now I have a warwick ok fro TR7. There are some made in china, alloy ones at £90 but will they last and have no reach to them. The serious race type equipment is £300 to £500 so I was starting to dispare.This one is from Snapon and at present on offer at £150 inc vat normally about £300. It is a low entry 65mm 2.5" entry with a long reach. raises to 1m. The only down side it is heavy, but built like all Snapon equipment to last armagedon. So I hope it will out last me. Look on there web pages.
The best way to scare yourself is to jack up an original chassis by one corner, and have a good look underneath. It's amazing how much they can flex, it's no wonder the body gets so many stress cracks. It also took me a while to work out that the chassis is not "flat", but rises to the front and rear, I was convinced that mine was completely shot. (When I got the body off, it was, but for different reasons)
Jacking at the engine cross-member is OK, but use a bit of 4"x2" timber across the width of the car to spread the load, because the single cross tube can crush under the weight, especially if you lean on the car as well. And get the car on a even keel using pairs of stands as soon as you can.
I'd also advise against jacking using the front (under the radiator) or rear (under to boot) cross members on a original chassis, because these are not sealed at the ends, and are the first ones to corrode where the mud and water lays inside them. It's almost impossible to weld a proper repair on these without lifting the body.
Once you've sussed where the "strong points" are on the chassis, (the corners of the central box, under the door hinges, an at the front of the rear springs) then it helps if you paint them yellow so that they are easier to see next time.
I jack mine up from the front:
