All the TR3/4 after market variants will work but a connecting section to lower the exhaust run under the front of the car will be required. A flexi-section here will help greatly by reducing the stress on the manifold if you hit any speed bumps etc.
Whichever you opt for, heat shields and/or other heat reduction methods are advised, such as Zircoetc coating. The tubular manifolds generate a lot of heat so mitigating their increase is advised.
Is the engine standard or tuned?
All the best,
Gary
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Rust Never Sleeps - Cavity Wax and Valium Should Do It
I used the Phoenix s/s manifold from Rimmers but it's a 4 into 1 rather than 4-2-1.
It fits really well but as Frank says, it generates a lot of heat. I wrapped mine.
The downside is it exits in line with the chassis member and, as Frank says, you need to come up with a way of routing the pipe under said member. I used a couple of bent pipes from the Jetex range that allowed me to get the rest of the exhaust as close as possible to the chassis.
That will be a nice engine!
When rebuilding the car some years ago we tried a Revington 4-2-1 manifold but it fouled one of the chassis tubes so we opted for the S/S Phoenix as used by Mike.
It fits nicely in the space available and sounds good. We have wrapped as much of the system as possible and it does make a difference to the temperature inside the car.
