Now at the stage of getting the doors on and the latches working properly.
I have the driver door fitting nicely with the upper part of the latch (the fat round pin) engaging with the plate on the B pillar. However, I can't seem to get the spur wheel at the bottom of the latch to engage properly with the lock plate (the bit with the 3 lumps on it) so that the door stays shut. I can't work out if this part is too far in, too far out, too high or too low. The door shuts but can be easily pulled open without pushing the button. It's like the spur wheel isn't locking in place over the bit with the 3 lumps. The part on the door works fine and the spur wheel WILL lock in place until the button is pushed, it's just not locking in place on the part with the 3 lumps (someone please tell me what it's called!)
Bare in mind, I have a new body so I have no pre-existing holes to show where the 2 parts that attach to the B pillar go so it's all a bit of guesswork atm.
Long time ago i had to do this job on my Phase 1. The bolt holes in both the doors and pillars were in a very bad shape. First i repaired those holes.
I found that the original angle of the lock and latch were wrong. These were about horizontal, but these hinges of a Phase one are not!!
So i took a pencil and held that still against the pillar, while closing the door carefully. This showed the exact angle of the door hinges. I did this again but with the pencil against the door, to show the angle on the pillar.
Then i put the lock back in the door, making sure the lower angle was parallel to the pencil stripe.
After that i made a set-up with a slide to see how all these parts worked together. Here you can see how the parts should line up.
From this set-up i made a drill template to drill the pillar holes.
To determine the correct height of the drill template, you can do the same pencil trick but at the center height of the latch pin. Position the template so that it lines up with the pencil stripe on the B pillar.
I hope this makes any sense?
-- Edited by Erik V on Thursday 11th of August 2022 12:16:56 PM
Erik, thank you so much. I haven't quite digested all that yet but I have one immediate question. On both your cars you appear to have reversed the lower part that the spur wheel engages with (the bit with the 3 lumps). On the first pic of the P2 car this bit has the 3 lumps to the inside of the car and on the last pic (which is when I assume you have everything in the correct place) the 3 lumps are to the outside of the car. Is there any reason for this??
I might try mine the other way round. It might help with the engagement of the spur wheel. Had to leave the workshop early today, I was getting so frustrated with the doors if I'd stayed any longer I'd have taken a sledgehammer to the car.
I might try mine the other way round. It might help with the engagement of the spur wheel. Had to leave the workshop early today, I was getting so frustrated with the doors if I'd stayed any longer I'd have taken a sledgehammer to the car.
oooooh been there a few times.
I have in the past looking into re manufacture of these parts but could never get enough "wants" together. perhaps now is the time?
I do remember making a backing panel for mine so the two items correlated when moved and it sandwiched the GRP
Is it possable to get any parts for the door latches? My Warwick #23 is missing part of the upper assy on the right side B post. The lower part that the pin
rides up on is missing. Therefore the door does not align correctly. Is there any thing available?
Dean. I have no idea if the Warwick latches are the same as the P1 Peerless. If they are, I might be able to help. Pic of the other side showing the part/s you're missing would help.
As my most northerly member says I may well be able to help you. They were originally fitted to Wolesley 1500 or Riley 1.5 and you are correct in thinking that the may be thin on the ground over your side of the pond.
they do come up on eBay etc and I do have sets in stock if you want me to supply, let me know.
I must also mention that I have spent some considerable time talking to small production manufacturers about re-making these items as the pool will dry up soon but have had very little response on commitment from "other clubs" and my own when discussing this issue.