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Post Info TOPIC: Indicator stator tube wanted


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Indicator stator tube wanted


Folks:

Has anyone got a indicator stator tube that they don't need? Don't need the switch gubbins, just the tube.I

Perhaps someone that's gone for a rack conversion?

Mines broken at the end of the slot that the adjustable bit slides in. Like a lot of other stuff they are "out of stock".

I've looked at repairing it by sleeving over the break, but the hole in the steering column is not big enough at depth.

I'm not clever enough to weld 10 mm thin wall tube. The local steel man hasn't got any 10mm tube in stock.

If all else fails I'll try 10 mm copper microbore, but it's on a roll, and I have to buy 10 metres of it.

Thanks

Frank



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Mine was broken too, Frank but I managed to get a replacement eventually from Revington TR.

Mind you, you'd probably cheaper 4 or 5 rolls of microbore.

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Sorry Frank, cant help you with that one.



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Rust Never Sleeps - Cavity Wax and Valium Should Do It


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OK, sorted now.

Supplier, 1stopdirect on ebay, 1.5 mtr of stainless 10 mm tube 22.95, free post.

It took ages trawling through eBay to find anyone that would ship more than 1 mtr.

F



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excellent, well done and another source...



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Well, I've got it fitted now, and it's not easy! Definitely comes with a bad language warning.

The original tube is 3/8 inch imperial, which is about 9.6mm. Imperial size tube is like chicken lips at the moment! The new tube is 10mm nominal diameter.

However despite the fact that it's nice and shiny, precision in size and round it aint. It certainly won't go through a 10mm hole, you need 10.2mm to get a sliding fit. Don't panic, this isn't more peerless mermaids and unicorns, it's a M12 tapping drill size.

The bit that needs opening is the clamp fitting where the tube exits the front of the steering box. The rest of the tube fits inside the steering column just fine.

Obviously you can't drill this out in situ. However, when you take the plate off, don't move the car or steering at all until you've bolted it back on. If the steering column moves, the bearing seats will get displaced, and are the very devil to re-seat, uphill, and you can't see the top one. It's possible on a Warwick, because you can get to it, but if it was a Peerless with the body on, you'll need to remove the steering box to sort it out.

The gland nut and brass olive need easing out as well, with the olive being the most difficult because it's tiny. I have a tapered broach I use, but the olive is split, not solid like a wedding ring. It needs to be fitted, or the tube will rotate, which was the point of the whole exercise.

All you need to do now is use a cutting risk to make a 60mm long slot in the top end and squeeze it down in a vice to fit into the keyway in the switch tube.

This would be an amusing one hour project if the steering box was on a bench. If it's in the car, and the body's on, think again.

Good luck!

F



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