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Post Info TOPIC: Rubber stuff again


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Rubber stuff again


Here we go again, MOT time

IMG_20210605_152301.jpg

On the left, TR3 front upright top ball joint rubber shroud, 4873 road miles.† Same condition both sides, guaranteed MOT fail.

Item is status backorder at Moss, price £1.60.† complete Ball joint assembly is backorder as well.

On the right, ORIGINAL steering ball joint rubber 60 years old.† Has enough elasticity to slide over the top ball joint, and secure with zip tie.

About an hour each side to change, thank God it's not raining.

How much longer do we have to put up with this garbage?† I'd happily pay a fair price for a quality component that doesn't let me down.

This is not just irritating, these are MOT fail safety components.

F



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Had something similar on my daily driver.

1 year after the rear brake cylinders (drum brakes) were changed the right side drum was sticking.

Opening it up I found one of the piston dust boots had just fallen apart.†

This made the piston rust solid in the cylinder.

Now I can buy a complete new cylinder in the price range from 6 pound up to 40 pound.

Same item, different brand.

But is the expensive one better quality?

I dare not sayno



-- Edited by Erik V on Saturday 5th of June 2021 05:58:14 PM

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Yes, I think it's time for something like TUV certification of brake and steering (safety) components.

The problem of product liability will hit us sooner or later.†

Now that the annual MOT test isnt compulsory for older cars then liability for a failure will end up only with the driver.††

And if you are the one that fixes the car as well, then it's going to be your problem.

Supplier Product liability limited to replacement of the faulty component won't help if you've just run over a baby in a buggy.

Which is why I still take my Warwick for an annual test.

F



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here here Frank. Please take the time to send this over to the FBVHC and see what they make of it?

the more we bombard these people perhaps the more will happen in the end†



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Sadly, it's not just rubber items. Just over a year ago I bought new gauges from Rimmers when there was an offer on, one of which was a fuel gauge. Last week, I finally got it out and started to sync it through my Spyda Fuel Gauge Wizard to my VDO dip senders. Needle shot immediately to full and beyond and then smoke started coming out. I should probably have checked it first but, hey, it was brand new. Anyway, a check with the multi-meter proved it to be faulty.

I was doing this on the bench so not an issue. Disconnecting everything was not a problem but if I had done this in a car, put it all together and assumed everything would work, I hate to think of the consequences.

Phoned Rimmers to complain and was told it was about a week out of warranty. No offer of refund, no offer of small discount, not even the 20% saving that I got when I originally bought it!

Happily, the original gauge still works even through the Gauge Wizard.

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Bit of a topic drift, but i'd never heard of a†Spyda Fuel Gauge Wizard.

Clever bit of kit that is!!



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Other similar devices are available but Spyda has been at it for some time and has a great rep.

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Is this an original spec Jaeger fuel gauge?

If it is, it's a differential coil instrument, and needs the case to be earthed.

This the link that's missing from the wiring diagram in the handbook, and is why most autojumble instruments are faulty.

Smiths gauges are different, and need a voltage stabiliser, as well as a different sender.

F



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Yes, Frank. It's the original Jaeger and yes, I was aware of the need to earth it. My test set up to calibrate the Gauge Wizard had the case earthed too.



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I need educating on this wizard you speak ofevileye



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First read about it when Gary used one on his Peerless and did a write up in PC. I think he was using new senders too but can't remember the type.

Anyways, needing to get a VDO dip sender to talk to an old Jaeger gauge, I felt this was the way to go.

Long and short. It can get any sender to talk to any gauge. Also works with water temp senders to gauges too. Can be set up to include low fuel/high temp warning lights and a host of other features I don't need.

I've spoken to Chris, who runs Spyda on a number of occasions now and he's an extremely knowledgeable guy and exceptionally helpful too. Highly recommended.

There are a range of youtube vids where you can watch the whole set up process. Pretty straightforward even for a Luddite like me.

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High tech wizardry!

Frank's Low tech solution.†

Works for temperature and fuel gauges.† Can do the same trick with mechanical oil pressure, but these are usually OK.

Strip the front plate off the duff Jaeger instrument.† Rebuild a TR4 Lucas temp gauge (£10 autojumble) with the Jaeger front and a domed glass.

Use new Lucas electric temperature sender or tank sender, with a voltage stabiliser.

Calibrate temp to 212 deg F using a kettle and tweaking the spring.† Calibrate Fuel level by shortening/bending the float arm.

Use model railway transfers to modify instrument letters/numbers.

Almost undetectable.† If you look closely the instrument needle is a bit too wide, shade with a felt pen if this bothers you.

Simples (and cheap)

F



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and you wonder why you get marked down at the concourse†biggrinbiggrinbiggrin†jasus dont anyone go look at mine†evileye



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