I need to completely replace the chassis for my 58. I can build it, preferably with new chassis specs, or I can buy a complete one and ship it here. I will be happy to pay for factory specs and drawings or a new chassis. Can anyone help?
When I rebuilt my Warwick, I had a fabrication shop build a new frame copying the old one. The body was off the frame and they just copied it.
It came out perfect. They knew how to weld it up with no distortion. Their are no bends in any of the tubes. Just straight runs and a few angles. Will help you
P/W Chassis construction/reconstruction is not beyond an enthusiastic amateur, I know, I've built two!
It a hell of a lot easier than trying to fit repro panels to a rusty tin car.
The difficult bit is getting the body off and storing it on a temporary frame. Don't just stand it on the floor without support.
Unless you have a seriously bent or totally corroded chassis, it's measurements are the ones that will best fit your Peerless body.
No factory plans are available, but all the component bits are, and they are relatively cheap.
The only part that isn't 1x1.5 or 1.5x1.5 inch 16 gauge tube is the TR3 front suspension tower, and Colin Matthews at CTM supplied mine.
A high-tech chassis jig is not necessary, just a flat surface, and a ruler. Keeping it square is mostly down to welding joints in sequence.
Original chassis seem to be +/- half an Inch in most dimensions, and there's a fair bit of wiggle room in body to chassis mounts.
Best tip! Don't cut up or skip your chassis until you've finished the replacement.
Refurb the suspension and steering first.
Tack weld the chassis together, assemble the suspension without springs and shocks, and check at the wheels that they all face in the same direction with consistent ride height and camber. Keep checking for square and at the wheels as you weld it up.
Replacing the GRP floor with steel increases chassis stiffness and handling and is not obvious in a completed car.
