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Post Info TOPIC: Boot lid/bonnet seal


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Boot lid/bonnet seal


I'm about to order the windscreen seal from Woolies (R398-358) and wanted to get the bonnet/boot seal at the same time. Would Woolies R100 be the correct selection and would this do for both the bonnet and boot lid? If not, what would be the best choice?



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as standard (I'm pretty sure) they never had either. I've never seen an original/wreck car with either fitted to phase 1.

Yours is a phase 1 so the bonnet drain rail stops at the front corners of the flitch, Phase 2 ran all the way round).

I've fitted a small thin U section on the edge of this and then found a small D section (with Double sided tape applied) so fitted this to the underside of the bonnet.

No rattles now but sealing this is perhaps not the best thing for airflow/heat venting.....but then I never lock my bonnet and at higher speed I'm sure its self regulatingbiggrin

Boot lid only had an ali J type channel that ran 3/4 of the way round the body lip/edge, (none along the bottom edge) to channel water away....I've fitted a larger D section (again double sided) to seal the boot as I found there was a smell of exhaust fumes in there when you opened it.

The D section seals against the boot lid nicely and I have a totally dry boot....which is a firstsmile



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Thanks Nigel. When I bought mine it had U section rubber running down the drain rails under the bonnet but this had hardened and mostly broken off. I can't remember if there was anything around the boot. I'm sure I've seen pictures of a P1 under bonnet that had rubber fitted along the drain rails but appreciate this could well be a later addition. It was only my intention to run any seal down the drain channels anyway. I'm not convinced having a grp bonnet vibrating against a grp body is the best way forward. I presume the U and D sections you refer to are rubber? Does your boor D section fit to the lid or the body?

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Mike, the last picture in the original Phase 1 folder shows an open bootlid and a lip seal around the opening.

I'm pretty sure this is a picture of a GRP car and not the aluminium prototype.

20210202_065300.jpg



-- Edited by Erik V on Tuesday 2nd of February 2021 07:36:17 AM

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Hello Mike,

I know R398 and R399 have been used by some here, but I also advise checking before ordering either.

I have samples of both those seals and in my opinion, they are not wide enough overall once fitted. This might cause problems with a shadow line on original headlining, for example.

I will dig out a profile of the seal used recently for reference.

All the best,

Gary



-- Edited by Gary S on Tuesday 2nd of February 2021 10:46:25 AM



-- Edited by Gary S on Tuesday 2nd of February 2021 10:47:10 AM



-- Edited by Gary S on Tuesday 2nd of February 2021 10:47:41 AM

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Rust Never Sleeps - Cavity Wax and Valium Should Do It


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Thanks Gary. I'd be really interested if you have an alternative suggestion. I'm a bit worried about the thickness of the GRP on the new shell around the window apertures. It's very thick in parts and, as it stands, might push the rubber off. I know I can overcome this by sanding down the GRP to a more uniform thickness of around 3mm but it's still a bit of a pain.

The original headlining? Is that the thing that looks like one of the Dead Sea scrolls lying on a shelf in my workshop and is crispier that an overcooked poppadum?

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Hello Mike,

Hope this helps. I too found the new shell screen apertures GRP thickness fluctuates between 3-4mm in a few places. If you are not worried about the dust, I suggest taking out any high spots, but overall, the guys from National Windscreens fitting my customer glass were confident their Claytonrite rubber would handle the fluctuations.

As you can see from the pictures, the two smaller profiles, Woolies 398 (smallest) and 399, are some way off the wider version National Windscreens have. Although the smaller ones might suit your car, the larger version spreads the loading better which is important for dissipating stresses on the glass. They charged me 25 per screen rubber, minus the insert piece, which they have but I already had some.

All the best,

Gary

PS. yes, thats the headlining!



-- Edited by Gary S on Tuesday 2nd of February 2021 08:27:24 PM

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Rust Never Sleeps - Cavity Wax and Valium Should Do It


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Hi Gary.

Thanks again for the info. Had a chat with my glass guru yesterday (he's old school and put glass in everything from classic Minis to vintage Bentleys) and he expressed concerns about using the larger Claytonrite on the basis that the lip on the bottom edge of the front screen (at least on my shell) isn't that large. That's large in terms of how deep it is, not how thick.

Given that there are new screens going into a new body, he's suggested a trial fit using small sections to, firstly, check the overall fit and secondly, which rubber fits the surround best.

I'd noticed that the GRP on the new shells tends to be thickest down the A pillars, mostly about 4mm and probably to ensure they don't break when moving a loose shell around. He's suggested a rubber that fits the thicker parts rather than thinning them down.

Anyway, all this will have to wait until paint goes on. A problem for another day.

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Don't over-think the screens fitting Mike.

The shell wobbles around so much (with or without glass) that the screen and rubber will bed themselves in once you start driving the thing. The chrome strip will stop it falling out, so you don't have to worry.

With both of my cars I struggled during fitting replacement screens to get the rubber to seat cleanly in the corners. As soon as I started driving it, all the gaps closed themselves up with no gaps or leaks.

F



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You're correct, Frank. I'm probably getting paranoid about them. I think the closer I get to completion, the more things I find to stress about.

And.....

Breathe.

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