The Peerless & Warwick Discussion Forum

mikerf · Status: Offline

Reversing light switch alternatives and interior light.

Frank · Status: Offline

As well as the overdrive relay control switches, it's possible to mount an extra switch on the gearbox remote for a reversing light.

This works a lot better than the original switch on a spring arrangement.

AFAIK these cars never had door switches.

I looked at fitting them on the Warwick, but you'd need to drill into the 1/8 in hinge mounting plate.

F

mikerf · Status: Offline

Would that involve fitting an isolator switch similar to the overdrive ones, Frank? If so, is there a particular place for it or is it a matter of removing the remote and finding a suitable location that aligns with the reverse linkage when in gear?

Frank · Status: Offline

I've got a later 4sync box, and there's a reinforcing land for it.

I can get you a picture and some measurements tomorrow if you want

F

mikerf · Status: Offline

That would be much appreciated, Frank. Don't think my cover has that drilling and blanking plug but I'll have a quick look in my workshop tonight. If I don't, it should be a relatively easy job to drill and tap the top cover to fit a switch but getting the location correct is, I imagine, vital.

timmy clayton · Status: Offline

Hi just put a switch under the dash as long as you remember to flick it on and off lol.... there a pain to connect if you take gearbox cover off but in my experience ...it makes no difference if you got one or not .... there too interested in the car to know whether your moving backwards or forwards....

Frank · Status: Offline

Of you look at the Moss website, TR5/6 gearbox page, it shows the variations of top cover switches.

Items 50, 51, 52, 53, 54

I think item 52 is what you are after, although any late pattern box will have the lands included. Drill and tap, or autojumble.......

I'll take the tunnel cover off tomorrow and measure where the switch is.

F

mikerf · Status: Offline

Thanks Frank. That would be much appreciated. Part 52 is indeed what I'd need but as they don't have any, that option is out and I can't see any autojumbles happening any time soon. Not that there are very many in my neck of the woods anyway. Might try and replicate the land by J B welding on a washer or some sort of spacer if I can get a measure from you.

Timmy. That's just cheating. I have this masochistic desire to make life as difficult for myself as possible. Why do you think I've ended up with a Peerless

-- Edited by mikerf on Wednesday 23rd of September 2020 09:55:48 PM

mikerf · Status: Offline

Had a look at the remote top cover last night. There is a reinforced boss on the l/h side currently fitted with a blanking plug. I 'think' it might be in the correct position for a reversing switch but a measurement from the end of the remote would be good. I'm not sure if the blanking plug is threaded or just an interference fit. Anyone have any ideas?

Frank · Status: Offline

The one on the left is the one you want. It's threaded the same as the others, and takes the same switch.

I'm missing the 2nd year switch, so I get O/d on 3/4 only.

Why fit a J type od? Check out the exhaust routing.

F

mikerf · Status: Offline

Now I'm really confused (again). I was under the impression that the reversing light switch went into the side of the top cover (2nd pic down, where the wire wrapped in blue insulating tape hides the boss with the blanking plug). Indeed, that is where the diagram of the top covers on the Rimmer Bros website shows it to locate. My box is the original, do you have a later one, Frank?

I'll take some pics tomorrow.

-- Edited by mikerf on Thursday 24th of September 2020 04:06:14 PM

Frank · Status: Offline

Yes, it's a 4 sync box, with j type o/d.

F

mikerf · Status: Offline

That explains it then. I have the 3syncro box with A type

I'll need to investigate if it's possible to insert a reversing switch on the side of the remote cover where the blanking plug is.

Frank · Status: Offline

Top covers are interchangeable. The thing on the side is a Welch plug.

I have a 4 synchro box and J type overdrive because they handle more power, and I can get the exhaust over that chassis member.

If yours hasn't got the lands for the switches I know a man who might be able to help.

F

mikerf · Status: Offline

Would that be the same man that Frank has given me contact details for. In London?

Frank · Status: Offline

Sorry, yes, London.

He trades on eBay and has a shed full of Triumph boxes in bits.

I'm sure there are lots of other suppliers between you and him, but we are in lockdown.

F

Frank · Status: Offline

Sorry, yes, London.

He trades on eBay and has a shed full of Triumph boxes in bits.

I'm sure there are lots of other suppliers between you and him, but we are in lockdown.

F

timmy clayton · Status: Offline

hi on dads and my cars the reverse switch isnt on the gearbox at all.....its just a simple spring loaded pull switch that screwed to in underside of the gearbox cover and theres a spring about 2 inches long that hooks onto the rod on the gearbox selecter the onto the switch so when you select reverse the rod moves forward and pulls the switch.. thats why its a bit tricky to connect because youve got to put the gearbox cover on then using so long pliers hook the spring end and clip it onto the switch the switch its self are just of ebay couple of quid.Tthe The interior light is turned on and off on the light itself but i found that the wires used, use to run up a/the little tube in the front window frame that strengthen's it.... hope this helps
this is what iv found but again they may be different of different cars....

timmy clayton · Status: Offline

sorry jumped the gun just read the whole post and realise you know that ...lol shut up Tim

timmy clayton · Status: Offline

This is why i struggled at school..

mikerf · Status: Offline

Don't worry, Timmy. I appreciate the input. The original layout is a bit Heath Robinson and I'd prefer something a bit more technical. Going to see if I can either get my hands on a top cover with the appropriate lands and drillings for the 2 inhibitor switches AND a reversing switch. The other alternative is to drill and tap my existing top cover provided it has the land for the reversing switch.

mikerf · Status: Offline

Starting to loose the will on this one.
According to Dave in London. The remote top covers for the 3 & 4 synchro boxes are incompatible. Apparently, internally, the selectors for reverse are in different places so although a 4 sync cover might fit a 3 sync box, the land for the reversing switch is in the wrong position.

Unless anyone knows differently??????

The idea of fitting a switch under the dash is becoming more and more appealing.

Frank · Status: Offline

Useful man to know, that Dave.

I'm definitely not the only one with a 4 sync box, anyone else want to own up?

F

wingleton · Status: Offline

Yes, I have a 4 Synchromesh box as well. I don't think I have any pictures of the reverse light wiring though.

The interior light is activated by the switch on the light itself (rather then be the door opening) on my late phase 2 if that helps.

Thanks
Will

mikerf · Status: Offline

Yes, Dave knows his stuff. I'm still puzzled by and illustration on the Rimmer Bros website and catalogue that shows a top cover with a reversing light switch that goes into the side of a top cover in place of the rearmost welch plug (illustrated as a 2-4 top cover) but fails to mention if this is for a 3 or 4 synchro box. However, if it was for a 4, why is it not on the top rather than on the side? Does anyone know why the welch plugs are there and what purpose they serve?

Will, thanks. I figured that's how the interior light works.

mikerf · Status: Offline

gbx.jpg.aae61ee301018f229c3c19c3d1897976.jpg

This pic shows the alternative positions of the reversing light switch on the 3 synchro A type o/d box (I believe). Anyone used or tried the side position??

Car155 · Status: Offline

#51 in the image above was fitted to the TR6 starting in the 1973 model.

Greg

mikerf · Status: Offline

But is also illustrated as TR2-5 Top cover on the Rimmer Bros website and catalogue.

nigel c · Status: Offline

don't think I add much to this one as I'm running a 4 sync box but with a 3 sync top and A type. Never got round to the reverse light thing but should really now as an LED in the rear light would work better/more light for the area given etc.

On the interior light thing, I have fitted lights down the foot-wells and put them on the "panel" light switch on the dashboard. By using a twin action headlight switch you can double up on services without having more switches than standard.

I did try driving at night without the dash panel lights on and it is really good but after a mile or so your thinkin...wonder what the temp is...how's my oil pressure.....did get fuel yesterday...so I gave up on that and put it to better use.

Same wit the heater switch, first pull is interior heater, second pull electric washers wink

Back to the motivation to fit foot well lights......

the Present Mrs Cluley was never to impressed putting her foot into one of my cars due to the time I went round to pick her up from her parents house for a date in my Bond Bug. I politely open the door for her, she put her foot in, stopped, drew her foot out, took her Court Shoe off, poured the water out and put her shoe back on.

She said "that was considerable amount of water"...I said "she shouldn't have such big feet". Cant think why she married me biggrin

mikerf · Status: Offline

Just had a chat with the guys at Revington. They offer exchange top covers for both boxes with 1 or 2 isolator switches and reversing light switch if desired. For the 3 sync top, they drill and tap the left most boss to fit the reversing light switch (provided it's there) and provided there is the appropriate notch in the reverse selector rail that corresponds to the switch boss. Apparently, if the top cover has the reverse switch boss, it's more than likely the shaft has the notch.

However, I'm reluctant to shell out £250 for a top cover when there is nothing wrong with the one I've got just to get a reversing light switch so may go back to the switch on the dashboard idea. I may look into getting my local machine shop to drill and tap for me dependant on cost.

Hopefully all this might be some help to anyone looking into fitting a proper reverse light switch rather than the original set up.