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Post Info TOPIC: Chassis #86 starts to look (vaguely) like a Peerless again


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Chassis #86 starts to look (vaguely) like a Peerless again


IMG_20200906_151703.jpg

After a good few years gathering dust, the body is finally on.

Still to be squared up and settled properly but not too difficult so far. I know that's going to change and it's a long way off fitting properly but nice to see it looking like a car again.



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Nice!!

That must give you a good feeling.



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Slightly disappointing to discover that the new body doesn't come with full sills.

At least I'f still got the old sections that went under the tanks albeit that they're badly damaged. Should be good enough to make up new panels from, though.

Just another task that I didn't expect to have to do.

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Ok, so I've pulled, pushed, lifted, pressed down, grunted and groaned for a few days now and I've got the following:-

Body sitting on chassis and equidistant on both sides at least according to my bit of string method.

Body sitting on dashboard with no visible gaps and reasonable distance between screen lip and point where wiper spindles are likely to come out.

Ground to top of headlight rim (minus chrome trim) 32" both sides.

Ground to top of rear fin 30 1/4" offside, 30 1/2" nearside.

How is that sounding so far???

I'm struggling to resolve that 1/4" difference at the rear. Offside doesn't want to come up any more and any attempts to do so result in the chassis going up too. Nearside won't come down either as the bit of the body that fits over the rear crossmember is down on the rail as far as it will go. To get it any lower would mean cutting the body to let that side drop. Not something I really want to do.

Tbh, to my eyes, it looks fine and I'm maybe being a bit paranoid.

In terms of Peerless body fitment, am I just being silly trying to get it spot on all round?

Incidentally, I tried Nigels trick of placing both hands on the wings close to the leading edge of the bonnet. The one where you put your thumbs in the gutters. Thats a bit of an eye opener! But can I see it when I stand back and look? Not really.

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If you are within 1/4 inch then you've done really well so far.  If you can include the doors and window frames now then it's better.

A bit of body misalignment is a minor irritant if you can't get the doors to fit or the windows to close, and it's a real pain to sort this later.

Good Luck!

F



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Yes, doors are my next issue. I've stripped and repaired the nearside door but I believe that this is the one that has fitment issues with the new bodies. Drivers door is still as it came off the car. Once I fit the D plates in properly I'll do a trial fitment before I do any body fixing.

Glad to hear that the odd quarter inch isn't significant. I'm happy with the way it's all looking at this stage.

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I'm happy to report that chassis #86 is now a pop-rivet free zone.

A 3 month work contract has severely curtailed Peerless time but after what seems like an age, I can report that the body is now securely attached to the chassis. It turned out to involve a fair bit more work than anticipated particularly in having to mould new sill sections and front undertray. Combined with the work involved in repairing/reshaping the internal grp panels it all added up to a labour intensive time.

A combination of Sikaflex, tech screws and grp tape have resulted in a very stiff structure and, hopefully, one that will stay in place a little longer than the original.

Much to my surprise, I've managed to get the distance from ground to the top of the headlights exactly the same. At the rear, the r/h fin sits 9mm higher than the l/h one. I think I can live with that.

The only panels still to be fitted are the forward rear wheel arch liners. Iirc, these were supposed to be removable but I'm not sure for what purpose.

Am I correct in thinking these were attached at the lower point of the wheel arch and, at the top, to the grp section that forms the rear seat arm rest? The old wheel arch liners have 3 holes at the bottom where the curve matches the wheel arch and 2 in the flat top section. Were these the the only fixing points?

Next task will be finishing running the fuel lines and fitting the filter king I've decided to go with although I'm not sure exactly where it's going atm. Then it's on to finalising the fresh air and heating ducting. Although I bought one of the heated screens, I'd still want the windscreen vents to work and, because of my new heater, this means I have to duct from inside the car, back into the engine bay and to the hole that feeds the windscreen vents.


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excellent news, well done Mike. I demand more photos for my next report?

Headlamps, level...is this really a Peerless...hope the bonnet shutswink 

not sure how the rear arch panels were fixed as not owned a car that still had them!

I glassed up a patch of mat/resin onto a piece of white melamine, popped it off then cut it out from a card template and made a complete "half moon" shape that did the whole wheel arch. My thinking was it made the side of the car stronger and stop all the ****e going up into voids etc.

Works well but fuel filler down pipes were a bit of a fighter but at least its water proof.

I then made a GRP right angle about 30mm X 30mm, cut slots in one face so it would curve around said new inner wheel arch and glassed that on. Now I have a right angle return which I have made spats (from black Foamex,) self tapered on, to stop said ****e going all over the de dion/diff/drive shafts/rear chassis/fuel pumps etc.

Cut a strange U shape into them so there's suspension/hand brake linkage/ travel clearance.

IMG-20121024-00605 (2020_03_05 09_55_05 UTC).jpg

this works equally well 

Filter king I've fitted on a bracket near the peddle box, tucked up slightly under the top of the wing.Air intake, if your're interested I can post some pics too.



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Thanks Nigel. Wouldn't mind a quick pic of the Filter King position. Scratching my head on that one atm. Air intake? I've got the ducting going through the original hole in the flitch panel. It's a slightly smaller dia. but I'll fit a length of U section rubber around the hole that should tidy things up nicely. The ducting (at present) continues along the underside of the wing and through the big hole in the front wheel arch liner. Once it enters the nose section, I've still got about 1M of ducting left so can really do just about anything with it. I don't have the grp ducting that originally forced air into the rad and was intending to make a new one (think you posted pics on this). I'm thinking of moulding into this a suitably angled flange for the flexible ducting to the heater.

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ducting sounds ok to me Mike, I've used drainpipe down pipe spouts for air intakes for the air box I made for the carbs. I think I used a suitable dia plastic "spout" I found in a scrapyard.

As for filter king fitting, see pic attached. I've never liked the idea of the fuel line going over the engine ala TR3 styley. ST did it because the mechanical pump was over that side driven off the cam.

We've got pumps (size 9) so I ran my line down the RHS straight to the carbs.

 

IMG_20210217_202127.jpg



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Thanks for the pic and heads up, Nigel.

To prove that I'm not above stealing other peoples bright ideas, I've located my Filter King in roughly the same area. My carb set up has the fuel feeding into the front carb first and then to the rear so I've fed the hose along the top of the flitch panel just under the bonnet lip. Looks reasonably tidy, so I'm happy.

Just another of the many jobs I wish I'd done before I put the body on rather than after.

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A quick update on progress with #86.

All holes now drilled in new body. Headlights, sidelight/indicators, fuel caps and rear lights. Trial fit of the latter.

Rear light cluster.jpg

 

Also had a quick go at the drivers door.

Driver door 2.jpg

 

Driver door 1.jpg

Not too bad considering it's the original door in a new body. Still needs a major amount of work but at least this side fits better than the other. I think it was Gary that identified that there was a bit of an issue over the fit of the nearside doors, particularly where they curve around under the 'A' pillar. Looks like I'll be bulk buying P40.



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That door fit looks pretty good for a first fit.

 



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bet that is so rewarding when you open the workshop doors now, great stuff Mike, send me over a couple of these and I'll put it in the next report 



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Will do Nigel. I know I've been promising to do this for ages. I'm planning on re-organising my workshop shortly and moving the Peerless to one of the other bays. While she's outdoors, I'll take some pics, get them off to you along with a little write up.

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So, here is a little update on progress.

 

I've spent a ridiculous amount of time fixing the passenger door and working at getting a good fit. The bad news is I've still got a bit to do but at least I can see the light at the end of this particular tunnel.

 

Firstly, what I started off with.

Door skin off.jpg

 

After a great deal of work, we get to this point.

Door skin 1.jpg

This is the door with everything fitted. Glass, regulator, lock etc, etc. The door rubber is also fitted. Happily, everything works. Window goes up and down. Door opens, closes and locks (from inside).

I still need to adjust the bottom, rear corner where the skin is still sticking out a little and work the gaps all round as well as giving it all a final sand down.

The observant may also notice that I've started sanding down the body for paint.

What a tedious task that is nono

Anyone want to come and help??

Anyone??

Please??



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Well that is good progress!

And boy, that does take a lot of time.

Did you count the times putting it in and taking it out again?

It's looking good!



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fantastic progress Mike, hate to say it but IMHO the passengers door is a doddle to fit...wait to get round to the other side frustrated.gif



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oh and send me some high res images so I can get them in my next report!



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Well done Mike,

Its coming along nicely. As you say, the doors take an eternity to get right, as there are so many parameters determining their fit.

One key aspect to remember is how much influence the internal metal work determines the fit, too. I delivered my customers car to the paint shop with the doors fit all set up and internal metal framework fitted (Having trial-fitted glass, regulator etc) A week later they had removed the framework and messed up the fit. Being able to tweak the fit is essential, as those door shells flex more than Nigels moustache.

Best wishes,

Gary



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Rust Never Sleeps - Cavity Wax and Valium Should Do It


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Thank you, guys.

Erik. No I didn't count and I'm glad I didn't. Too many times is the short answer.

Nigel. I was feeling quite happy 'till you came along. I was rather hoping that the driver door would be easier given I would just be following what I did on the passenger one.

Gary, given that your paint shop took out the metal framework do I assume you're not intending to glass it in as per original?
I was intending to give the paint shop the bare door shells (along with boot lid and bonnet) and build them up again when painted. I know for certain that I will have the exact same problems again when it comes to fitting after paint goes on.
#notlookingforwardtoit

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Mike,

It looks fantastic! You've come a helluva long way since I came to see you with some handbrake cables in our purple Phase 2 all that time ago...

Keep up the good work - you will have a superb car when you've finished (... err is that a word I can even use in the context of a Peerless??)

Cheers,

Nick

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Hi Nick

Yes, that was a long time ago, wasn't it! I really should have gotten on much quicker but life has a nasty habit of getting in the way.

I still remember my first trip in an actual, working, on the road Peerless fondly. So much better than sitting behind the wheel of a half-built car making engine noises.

Will it ever get on the road? I'm sure it will but might be missing some creature comforts (again, can I use that word in the context of a Peerless??)


Mike

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