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Post Info TOPIC: Window runner wheels


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Window runner wheels


Yes, I'm still working on the doors.

Having sorted out one Bright Regulator, I'm now in the process of trying to get the glass to go up and down smoothly. However, this is somewhat hampered by the wheels that sit in the channel on the bottom edge of the glass. Both of these little alloy wheels were seized solid and whilst I've managed to free them off a bit, they still lock up and refuse to turn every now and then. The new (old) regulator and parallelogram I've just received from Flying Spares is even worse with both wheels seized solid.

To my mind, this presents a problem in that any resistance to the wheels running smoothly in the channel will inevitably result in failure of the Bright Regulator as the alloy back plate will start to wear on the square section of the regulator shaft and this will eventually round off completely. No more window going up and down.

These little alloy wheels are riveted in place and I wonder if it is possible to grind off the rivets and replace with something that allows the wheels to run more smoothly.

Anyone attempted this or is there a better fix??

 



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The wheels on my regulators are also riveted on, and don't turn at all.

I'm sure the system will operate better if the wheels turn freely.

Next week i will take a look at these to see if there is room to fit a small std bearing in the wheel, and make something up on my lathe



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As always, it's a bit more complicated......

In the centre of this wheel is a sprung ball bearing.  This is usually stuck as well.

If you can get this to move inwards, then you can get a bit of suitable solvent in there, and this will help to free things off.

The sprung bearing is essential, without it the window lifter will rattle like the very devil.

F

 



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Great! So my cunning plan of drilling out the rivet, inserting a brass tube as bush and then a thin rod threaded at each end isn't going to work.

Now for the basin full of solvent and a good, long soak.

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Good to know there is already a bearing inside the wheels!

Thanks Frank.



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Frank wrote:

 

In the centre of this wheel is a sprung ball bearing.  This is usually stuck as well. 


 Which will be why I thought it was the head of a rivet.

Much appreciated Frank. All 4 now moving in and out so I'll get some petrol in and see if that will free off the wheels.



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Erik.

FYI.

All 4 of my wheels were seized solid and had actually developed flats where they had slid from side to side in the window channel rather than turned. I freed them off with mole grips to start with but they were still reluctant to turn freely.

I soaked them in unleaded for the afternoon, turning them every now and then to make sure the fuel was getting into the wheels properly. Pushing in the sprung ball bearing also helps.

At the end of the afternoon, I now have 4 wheels turning freely. I now need to apply some gentle sandpapering to try and get rid of the flat spots.

Tbh, this is a poor bit of design and WILL inevitably seize up again. If I could find some suitably sized nylon wheels that fitted, I'd swap them.

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Don't accuse Peerless of "design".  I think these cars are the duck-billed platypus of automobile evolution.  They exist, but nobody can explain why.

F



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Ah, but not Peerless fault in this instance, Frank. The Bright Regulator is just a bad design. Steel peg in an alloy hole?? Wheels that seize up and refuse to run putting strain on the mechanism?? And as for the internals??

Think I'll go for electric windows.

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why do you think I'm running railway carriage style leather straps and hooks biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

 

 



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Interesting fact No. 1 regarding Bright Regulators

The dia. of the window runner wheels is different between the 2 arm leaver and the 3 arm leaver.

My original 2 arm Peerless regulator has the slightly smaller wheels size. These fit the window channel and move freely from side to side.

My ex Rolls Royce regulator has slightly larger wheels and will only fit the same channel if extreme force is applied and jams up solid.

I think I'm losing the will to live. It shouldn't be this difficult.

I've found and ordered 2x nylon wheels at 18mm dia. to see if I can get these to work. Sadly coming from China so won't be here for a month or so.

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Could be time to ask Nigel to look in his box'o'bits.......

F



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Of make a new runner to suit the wheels.

F



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The runners are actually in really good condition and it would be a shame not to use them. Tbh, I think it would be easier to fix the wheel issue than to make up a new runner.

I have a cunning plan to 'adjust' the wheels to suite the runner. If that doesn't work, I'll wait 'till I get the nylon wheels from China to see if I can make that work.

Typically, the RR regulator is for the door I've just finished restoring and the regulator that actually fits the runner perfectly is for the door I've start on.

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On the matter of the section that fits to the bottom of the glass and wheel trundle (you hope) along. Just did a bit of trolling through images looking for something that might suit and found this?

 

https://www.bmcfarina.com/contents/en-uk/p1159_Drop-Glass-Carrier.html 

 

Even if you have to buy or machine the wheels to fit its better than trying to get a section folded/fabricated??? certainly wont get it made for £25!



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Here's one I made earlier.....

IMG_20200731_195155.jpgIMG_20200731_195245.jpg

There are two bits to this.  A strip of 1.2mm steel rolled around a 10mm drill into a J shape.  Heat helps, or a bigger hammer.

The U section is from B&Q metal sections.  Spot weld both sections together.  Glue to bottom of window glass.

Simples.......

How hard can it be?

F

 

 



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