The Peerless & Warwick Discussion Forum

wow, see what you mean about the handles. That will surely gouge a line in the door card?

As for the mechanism, off the shelf, good value me thinks....I wonder how many they have tho?

https://replacementpartsinc.com/quick-lift-regulator-left-hand-rb7131/ 

Can I ask if anyone has successfully installed the 3 arm Bright Regulator into a P1 door without moving the position of the crank?

Having finally got everything working, on the bench at least, on assembly, I've discovered that the longer parallelogram arms of the 3 arm assembly cause the rearmost wheel to slip out of the runner when the window is going down.

To my mind, there are 2 options here. One is to cut the arms, weld back to the same length as the 2 arm assembly and the second is to move the whole assembly further forward (toward the front edge of the door).

To my mind, the latter option would appear the best if for no other reason than I feel the whole mechanism is too far back anyway.

To me, it looks like the wheels of the mechanism only really work on the back half of the window runner meaning, when in the down position, most of the weight of the glass is unsupported and towards the front.

I would think that moving the position of the whole mechanism forward would result in wheels running in the central section of the window channel rather than predominantly the rearmost section. In turn, this would distribute the weight of the glass more evenly and, hopefully, prevent the glass jamming when going up or down.

Having looked at both assemblies (2 & 3 arms) again. I think I've decided to do both. Cut and weld the 3 arm version AND move both mechanisms further forward in the door.

If you look back at the pic Erik posted on page 1 of this thread of the 2 arm and the 3 arm mechs side by side, you'll see how higher and further back from the fulcrum the roller wheels are on the 3 arms version despite the angles of both being roughly the same.

The net result of this is the 3 arm version wants to push the glass up too high but on lowering , will only let the glass drop half way down. Additionally, the rearmost wheel pops out of the runner when lowering because of it's greater length of travel. Once this wheel comes out of the runner, all the weight of the glass transfers to the front and any attempt to raise the glass back up fails because the wheel that popped out of the runner can't get back in because the glass is sitting at a slight angle. The only way to overcome these problems is to move the crank forward AND lower it. So that's out.

In my opinion, even on the 2 arm version, the crank is placed too far back as, when in the lowered position, all the weight of the glass is to the front. I guess this may well be why the 'window drop' problem occurs. My guess is that this wasn't just a later life problem but was possibly identified fairly early prompting the change to quarterlights (just my opinion).

Irrespective, despite the inadequacies of the Bright Regulator, I believe I can make the whole system work better than it does.

Wish me luck.