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Post Info TOPIC: Body fitting question


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Body fitting question


As I'm getting close to fitting the new body to #86, I thought I'd take a few measures to see how everything lines up. Somewhat worryingly I've come across something I can't quite get my head around. By way of an excuse, I should point out that my original body had front end damage and the nose of the car was hanging loose so I've never been sure of how the underside of the nose attached to the front chassis rail.

Anyway, this photo shows the very bottom of the front of the new body.

Body front.jpg

The black area to the left is the body (with the toes of my trainers poking under it). The edge of the body that can be seen top and bottom and at roughly the centre of the pic corresponds  to the front edge of the wheel arches. The large rectangular cut-out to the front of the body is approx 7" in front of the wheel arches. 

Once the body is on, how does the front attach to the chassis? The bottom edge of the body is approx 5" in front of the front chassis rail. I was under the mistaken assumption that the body hooked under both the back and front chassis rails but this large rectangular cut out suggests not. In that case what attaches the bottom front edge of the body to the chassis? I can't imagine that the whole front of the body is just supported by a combination of the inner wings and the grp panels that fit in front of the wheels and were bonded/pop riveted to the inner wings and body shell?

I recall from one of Eriks posts that he had made up a panel that went from the bottom front of the body to the underside of the front chassis rail but that's on a P2 car and mine is P1. Should I have something similar?

On a brighter note, inner wings (flitch panels) now repaired, painted and temporarily installed to allow me to clip wiring in place.

Inner wings.jpg 

Hope you like the colour choice. Yes, I know it's not original but I like it and it's my car biggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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Looks like you're missing some GRP there.

Originally the P1 bodies go around/underneath the chassis.

This is done by glassing in long GRP sections under the sills.

I may be wrong but I think the front body edge should be long enough to hook underneath the chassis.

Back in 2006 I made lots of pictures of the most original P1 I've ever seen at the TR-International.

Here are two, showing the front and the rhd sill.

DSCF2193.JPG

DSCF2192.JPG



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Hi Erik

Yes, I know the original sills came as separate panels that were bonded to the body and then pop riveted to the underside of the side rails. In fact, I've still got both the original sill mouldings. Those were just some of the mouldings that came as individual panels.

With regard to the front, I guess your first picture shows the area I'm talking about. It won't be too difficult to make up something that I can bond/fix in place but it's just another job I didn't anticipate having to do. Can't think why this section isn't moulded into the new shells. Unless it's intended to make the body easier to fit over the chassis??

Btw, did you get the loom ok?



-- Edited by mikerf on Tuesday 30th of June 2020 11:36:29 AM

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Yes, the loom arrived ok last Friday.

Thank you very much for that!

I'm sure I've sent you a pm, but I think I did something wrong because I can't find it anymore.



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No worries, Erik. Didn't get a PM but glad it arrived safely.

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yea this section sweeps under the cross tube....... which I didn't know because, like Mike's mind had seen better days...in fact I think it had seen a cattle grid at 60!

not sure why the new shell is short, Gary may know and he has had problems with door apertures as well.

I strengthened the front of mine (way to much I think) and cut it back to create a breather vent for the oil cooler but some holes cut with a tank cutter would have been a better plan doh

you can just make out the gap here.

IMG_20200630_192114 (Large).jpg

I would suggest if you intend to fit larger tyres IF you can set the front inner wheel arch panel further forward than I did then you will gain clearance here?

Mine is about 5mm in from the wrap round wheel arch (in white) and with 185 X 70's on 5.5j centre laced wheels the rub on the front panels so (hastily, after fitting the tyres and before heading for the I.O.W ferry with the present Mrs Cluley!) I had to make recess panels and let them in.

 

IMG_20190618_192941 (Large).jpg 

quick foamex mould

 

 IMG_20190618_192929 (Large).jpg

 

paste the outer face with P40 pass through the aperture at an angle and then pull froward and hold in place using the black gaffa tap....simples evileye

IMG_20190618_200441 (Large).jpg

 

doesn't look a lot but it made all the difference.....and I didn't get "why is there a strange noise (more than usual)...and why does it smell (more than usual) of burning rubber" etc

 

 

 



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Much appreciated Nigel.

I can only think of two reasons for the cut-out. Possibly to make hooking the body over the rear crossmember easier whilst not stressing it at the front OR making it easier to get out of the mould??

Anyway, it's not too difficult to make up a section to fit. The only question is do I do it before I fit the body (easiest option) or once it's fitted (more difficult option).

However, the former makes fitting the body more difficult so I'm really undecided.


The final question is; why is the underside of your car so clean, Nigel??



-- Edited by mikerf on Wednesday 1st of July 2020 07:45:51 AM

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trust me its not!



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Photoshop 



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no, the thunderstorm when I was heading towards Coventry the other day did most of itdoh



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Further to my imminent body fitment, obviously the boot (trunk) liner has to go in before the body is fitted on to the chassis but can anyone advise if the boot liner should be fixed in place before the body goes on or should it just be left loose and fixed once the surrounding panels (rear inner quarters, wheel arch liners etc) go in.

I know which option I think is best but if anyone with experience of fitting a body has any advice, it would be much appreciated.

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Hello Mike,

I would wait until the body is on. That way you get to jiggle the fit for optimum sealing. Ive done two cars this way without any issues. Access of course is better without the body, but unless you have a guaranteed, previous fit, some room for adjustment is prudent. 
All the best,

Gary



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Rust Never Sleeps - Cavity Wax and Valium Should Do It


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Thank you, Gary. That was what I thought was the best option but it's great to get the advice of someone who's been down this path.

Much appreciated.

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