Happily, my recent purchase of an alloy water pump housing has cured the annoying coolant leak at the rear of the housing. Still no idea why the old cast iron persisted in leaking after 3 attempts to get it to seal but, hey ho, sorted now.
On the irritating front, there is still a slow drip from the s/s pipe that runs from the water pump housing along the side of the block. This is coming past the olive and along the pipe and despite tightening up the nut that compresses the olive to f.. VERY tight, the drip persists to the point where I feel like abandoning a heater, fitting blanking plugs and resorting to a pure electric heater/demister. Anyone got any suggestions to sort this problem?
Second irritation is the inability to get sufficient clutch travel at the slave. I appreciate that there is supposed to be a bit of end float when bled but I just don't have any. The result is I can't engage gear. This may have been caused by me not ensuring that the cylinder in the slave wasn't fully depressed prior to me bleeding the system. I'm going to loosen the bleed nipple and push the push rod fully into the slave to see if that will make a difference.
I've also looked into this matter on the TR forum and seen suggestions that similar problems were resolved by using the bottom hole for the fork on the clutch release arm. I know perceived wisdom is that the centre hole is the one to use but is this a practical option?
I have struggled with the clutch disengaging in the past, and it was adjustment of the rod into the slave. After bleeding the system the rod had to be adjusted fully into the slave and then backed out. I first thought that I'd got the rod in all teh way but turns out that i hadn't and that small extra travel was the difference between being able to select a gear or not.
On the TR forums there seems to be different info on the amount to back off the locking nut on the rod. Best i got was to turn the rod FULLY into the slave then back off until you can just feel a slight movement. That worked for me each time I've had to adjust.
Thanks Dave. I suspect that's exactly what I've done (or, not done). Got the pushrod fully back into the slave. I agree that info on how much to back off the locking nut is scant and often contradictory. The Haynes manual doesn't help much either with little on the Girling system.
Don't be afraid to use PTFE tape on the olive. Sorts most problems like this, I've used it on oil pipes as well.
And in your quest to get clutch disengagement, make sure that there is enough clearance so that the release bearing isn't permanently turning or you'll wreck it in no time.
Frank. I did try PTFE tape on the thread of the nut that secures the pipe and olive but that was on the old cast iron housing and I don't think the nut screwed into the old, larger nut fully hence the leak from there too. With the alloy w/p housing, I've used Hylomar blue and there is no leak from the nut, jut passed the olive. Do you wrap PTFE around the olive??
