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Post Info TOPIC: Wanted: Phase 2 separate boot floor section


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Wanted: Phase 2 separate boot floor section


Two months ago i bought a Phase 2 and unfortunately it appears that i am missing the separate piece of boot floor section that bolts to the main boot floor.

If any one has one lying around that can be sold?

Another option is to send one to me, so i can make a mould of it and make my own after returning the original to its owner?
Shipping cost are off course covered by me.

Thanks,
Erik



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Eric:

When I rebuilt the Warwick I cut the spare wheel well out and replaced the boot floor with a flat alloy plate.
It's always a nuisance on a P/W anyway, it scrapes on every traffic calming hump, and when driving if your rear springs/dampers are set too soft.
This allowed me to fit a cute 6 gallon alloy tank out of harms way between the rear wheels, and room under the boot floor for the exhaust box.

I still have the spare wheel well that I cut out. The removable bit at the front of the well that goes under the de-dion is missing.

If it's any use to you....

Frank

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this bit.......

F



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I'm guessing Erik wants the removable bit?



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Well Frank, if you really don't need it then i could use it very well.

If i cut out the damaged section or the complete well and replace it with your part that would save me quite some time.

My plan still is to keep this car as original as possible.

As this part is from you Warwick, the boot/spare wheel well must be the same as the Phase 2.

That means i can ask Hugo here in the Netherlands if i could borrow his removable section and copy that?



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It's yours Eric.  I'll send it as soon as I can, lockdown permitting!

The removable bit only needs to be removed if you take the body off with the De-dion tube still in, and you can't see it with the spare in there.

It's difficult to make it watertight as well, the weight of the spare stresses the joint.

I'd bond the whole lot together, a much simpler solution.

F



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IMG_20200408_091124.jpg

Here's where it came from, tank is 6 gallon aluminium made for Locost kitcars.

F



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Frank wrote:

It's yours Eric.  I'll send it as soon as I can, lockdown permitting!

The removable bit only needs to be removed if you take the body off with the De-dion tube still in, and you can't see it with the spare in there.

It's difficult to make it watertight as well, the weight of the spare stresses the joint.

I'd bond the whole lot together, a much simpler solution.

F


 +1



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Frank, is the round panel on the RHS for access to the hub grease point? Clever if so. On the same lines, you've lost the panel to the diff oil-point, correct?
dave

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Dave GT2 



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The round cover is for the lever arms, which I don't have.  TelescopicsRus.

I don't remember filling the diff being a problem before.

Generally all of the service items can be accessed by taking the back seat out.

F

 

 



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Frank wrote:

It's yours Eric.  I'll send it as soon as I can, lockdown permitting!

The removable bit only needs to be removed if you take the body off with the De-dion tube still in, and you can't see it with the spare in there.

It's difficult to make it watertight as well, the weight of the spare stresses the joint.

I'd bond the whole lot together, a much simpler solution.

F


 Thanks a lot Frank, highly appreciated!

And no hurry, i have plenty of other jobs to do on this car.

Its certainly a good idea to bond the removable bit!

As for the round covers, mine are rectangular, and can be removed to take out the shackle pins of the rear springs.

And that fuel cell sure looks good, tempting.....  



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Frank, 

Did you connect the fuel cell to the right side filler cap?



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The tank is from Optimum Balance Products, it's 6.5 gallon, baffled, aluminium.  

You can't connect to the original filler, there's a wheel in the way, and the pipe needs a downwards slope to fill without blowing back.  I've added an extra filler cap under the rear window, you can just see it in the picture.  The level sensor for it isn't compatible with the Peerless gauge, but most of them are faulty anyway.  If you reduce the length of the float arm by about half to increase its travel, then a TR4 (lucas) electric gauge will give reasonable readings, but you will need a voltage stabiliser.  That's what I've done, but I've used the TR3 face and dished glass so that it looks original.

This gets me about 150 miles, or two hours, after which you need to stop or risk permanent hearing loss!

 

F

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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Good information Frank,

Yes indeed, now i see the new filler cap in the picture.

 



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