Thought the assembled masses might like to see my new floorpans. A bit of fettling and a couple of holes for the seat frames and they should be ready for spot welding in place.
Please excuse the messy workshop. I promise I'll tidy up soon.
It is, but not by me. They were made by the same guy that did my alloy fuel tanks. At £200 for the pair, how could I refuse? I could probably have done them myself but it would have taken 5 times as long and used 10 times the amount of steel. He's currently making up new door hinge plates for me that will allow the door to be adjusted in, out, up & down
Gary. Yes, I read the feature in PC. It was an interesting alternative and I did contemplate trying something similar. I'm always up for pinching other (smarter?) peoples ideas.
However, after having a good, hard look at my own door plates and hinge mechanisms, I decided to stick with the original hinges on new door plates. The logic really centred around the fact that there is no wear in the hinge pins and they are perfectly serviceable. Given that, I felt that using oversize holes in the door plate along with 3mm plate repair type washers (my fabrication guy is cnc'ing these for me) behind the plate will allow sufficient movement of the door in, out, up and down to get a fairly good fit. Any further adjustment required to get a decent fit and gap can then be achieved by removing the door skin either in part or wholly and re-attaching to get a perfect (hopefully) fit.
Given that I'm using the original doors in a new body, I'm expecting serious fit problems anyway so the more adjustment I can get, the better. I'll also need to replace some of the metal inside the door as it's rusted at the bottom so I'm thinking of using ali for this rather than steel but I'll need to consider how the forces applied through the window winder mechanism might impact on the softer metal. Still, all that's a long way off yet.