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Post Info TOPIC: Stator tube length


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Stator tube length


Having had to buy a new (second hand) stator tube can anyone tell me how far it should extend, if by anything, beyond the end of the nut that holds it in place on the lower end of the steering box. At present and with the steering wheel as far down the splines on the top of the column as it can go, the stator tube extends to 9" from the nut and I'm guessing that's way too far. I assume that the stator tube I got might have come from a long column car?
 
In the event of me moving the steering wheel (and boss) further back up the splines (toward the driver), how does the control hear stay attached to the stator tube?
 
 


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My stator tubes (Ph2 and Warwick) both had sliding joints so that the lower end stayed fixed (by a compression joint and olive) at the steering box, and the upper end could move in and out with the steering wheel.

The reality was that the Peerless sliding joint continually slipped out and the control head wandered around with the steering. Eventually the cable will fail, but I've sold the car now.

In the Warwick I've welded the sliding joint up and the control head is fixed by the nut at the steering box.  I don't move the steering wheel in/out anyway, nobody else drives the car. However the self-cancelling bit of the control head catches sometimes, and pulls the control head round.  Next time I take it apart I'll remove the self-cancelling peg.  Every time you take it apart you have to refill the steering box oil.

Notwithstanding any of the above, the stator tube juts out about an inch past the gland nut.  If you're sticks out further you probably have a non-adjustable TR3 stator tube.

F



-- Edited by Frank on Monday 5th of August 2019 10:53:54 PM

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I think mine sticks out by about '1/2" (I'll check with the present Mrs Cluley) you don't want it to protrude much further due to the wire coming out and having to curve away from the back of the radiator.

Also, if you cut/trim this tube make sure you file a nice rounded edge so it doesn't chafe the wiring....I also put a couple of layers of heat shrink here. and I don't move the steering either and there's 3 of us driving it. In fact

the kids don't even know its adjustable! see, youth no nothindisbelief



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So, same as always with Peerless, nothing consistent.

Like Frank, I'll probably be the only person driving so, in the meantime, I'll cut half the length off to avoid it getting in the way and make a final cut once I've established a comfortable (?) driving position.

Good tip on the heat shrink, Nige. I might try and find a short bit of rubber tube that fits over the stator tube and then heat shrink over that.

I would have loved to use the original steering wheel but the boss was knackered inasmuch as all the teeth bar two that engaged with the splines on the column had snapped off. I've replaced it with a nice wood rim Moto-Lita wheel and boss that can be adjusted. However, it needs two grub screws to be slackened off so it can slide up and down the splines. So far, it's working well with the column and stator tube and the self cancelling works too.



-- Edited by mikerf on Tuesday 6th of August 2019 07:50:51 AM

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just a thought whilst on this subject. On my first rebuild of BP steering I fitted a solid nylon top bush to the steering column. I cant remember where I got it from but it was blooming brilliant compared to the later column I have fitted

with the usual felt thingy which is rubbish.

All I can remember was it was black and a "top hat" style in section.

 

Anyone got any ideas?



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