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Post Info TOPIC: HELLO FROM WISCONSIN! Restoring a 1958 LH Drive Peerless GT


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HELLO FROM WISCONSIN! Restoring a 1958 LH Drive Peerless GT


I set this account up to start interacting with Peerless people for my Grandfather, Richard Lichtfeld.  He is the owner.  HE also has the only 1916 Peerless Touring car left and has a 1917 as well.   That is what prompted him to purchase this GT 20 years ago and now the time has come to start the restoration.

 

I hope there is still a lot of interest in these cars, I am Grady, age 31, and Grandson of Richard Lichtfeld and want to say hello from Wisconsin.



-- Edited by GT200D62 on Monday 28th of January 2019 08:40:52 PM



-- Edited by GT200D62 on Monday 28th of January 2019 08:41:50 PM

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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Hi Grady and Grandad! really hope to see that V8 in the peerless, its gonna be tight guys biggrin



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Welcome guys!  Hopefully the restoration adventure is a wonderful one!  Keep us updates.

 

Blue skies and green lights - Jim Bolinger (Canton, OH)



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The V-8 is a 1916 Peerless engine that we just restored--I don't think it would be as fast as the original triumph engine although it was ahead of it's time with roller tappets--four barrel two stage carburator W/ accelerator pump--cut out fan and such.


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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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nigel c wrote:

Hi Grady and Grandad! really hope to see that V8 in the peerless, its gonna be tight guys biggrin


 That is actually the motor out of the 1916 peerless.  We are putting the original 2.0L back in rebuilt.  The GT will be pretty close to all original.



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Here are more pictures.  Looking for info on the de dion rear end currently.



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Hello Richard,
I am recommissioning a Wisconsin barn find Peerless which belongs to my brother Tom, who lives in Wauwatosa.
This is a remarkably nice car, which had been stored away in the early "70s, with about 40K miles.
What are your questions about the rear end?
Rich



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R.W.HEINRICH


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Any diagrams or numbers for replacement seals?  Need to take apart and clean and put back together with new seals and whatever else is needed.  You found a GT in Wauwatosa?



-- Edited by GT200D62 on Wednesday 14th of August 2019 05:04:58 PM

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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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It is basically a Dana 44.  Common to Jags of the era.  My driveline guy had no issue cross referencing or sourcing parts. 

I used an SKF 15788 for the diff seal in the Warwick but in the Peerless we used the set below:

Tinken: 24780 bearing (2) 

            24721 race (2)

            31593 Pin bearing (1)

            31520 Pin race (1)

Dana     44895 Pin seal (1)

National 470548 axle seal (2)

Hope this helps!

Dean



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59' Peerless #213, 61' Warwick GT, 60' Healey BN7, 70' Lotus Europa, 88' M5...



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Thanks.  Had several other little projects plus maintaining the other cars and my grandparents house taking my GT time.  but now I am back into it.  Just dropped the differential out and going to send it out soon.  As well as starting to send out chrome pieces to be redone.  Next problems I will have is deciding where to put a fuel cell as the stock tanks make driving it fairly dangerous in likes of collision.  

The other problem is figuring out this OVERDRIVE.  The car came with many extra parts and one driveshaft is slightly different and we seem to have what I think is the Lay**** Overdrive but I am unsure.  I do not think this car had the optional OD but do not know how to know for sure.  Any info on this Lay**** OD for these cars would help.  I would love to have it even if this car didn't have it originally.  I will get progress pics going and keep in closer contact as I know I will need all of your advice and pointers.  My grandfather is not able to do much physically but he is still sharp as a tack mentally and can guide me a long with all of your help.

 

Thanks Everyone

Grady G.  Richard Lichtfeld's Grandson



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Next I have to figure out this overdrive system.  As you can see, when we had the motor and trans rebuilt this was not included.  However, I would really like to have this on and in working order.  I posted as many pics as I can.  I see that our transmission's tail piece is long and skinny where some pics I have seen have the Lay**** looking tail end.  I will search the forum again for the overdrive but there were no distinct pictures describing both options and what it would entail to switch it over.  

Please if anyone can even send me a phone number so I can call and get any advice.

Thanks as always.

IMG_1603.JPGIMG_1604.JPGIMG_1605.JPGIMG_1606.JPGIMG_1607.JPGIMG_1608.JPGIMG_1609.JPGIMG_1602.JPGIMG_1488.JPGIMG_1487.JPGIMG_1486.JPG



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Hi Grady,

Currently I have the original OD box out of my car.
If you need any detailed pics or dimensions of it, please let me know.

Not sure, but looks like the long non OD tail piece has a different bolt pattern to the box than the OD.

Or is there some intermediate plate?

12.JPG



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So an adapter plate it is

13.JPG



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The adapter plates are available new. I have replaced several as they get bent and don't seal. Have gotten some from OD spares in the UK. 

when mating the OD to the adapter be very careful, if you use the bolts to pull it together, the plate will bend.

 

Dean

 



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Hi Grady,

Hopefully you have another box of parts somewhere. In your pics parts #39-57 are missing as well as the adaptor plate. These are a challenge to rebuild properly but can be done.

Greg
Your neighbor in MN.

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Thanks everyone, really.

Is it worth doing this overdrive system? If you were in our shoes and rebuilt original trans did not have the OD system would you leave it?  My grandfather didn't know that there was an overdrive set up included with the car because there were many boxes and wasn't on the tranny.  I would like it on there but if you guys advise on the side of not using it please let me know.  I am going to search for those other parts which I believe we do have, somewhere.

 

Thanks again.  And please if you are in the United States and have a GT done or doing one or even had in the past please send me your phone number as I am so green with mechanical stuff I would greatly appreciate it as wisdom is better than knowledge.  And it is often not what you know, but WHO you know.

I could call Nigel and bother him haha but would prefer as many contacts as possible.

 

Truly a pleasure gentlemen,

Grady G. & RHL



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Hi Grady,

You could always get in touch with your local Triumph TR clubs and go to one of their meetings and see who they can recommend or even supply parts and all that vital info your looking for, that's what clubs should be about.

Oh and the phones off the hook biggrin



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I am currently prepping the chassis inside the car to be painted.  I have entire rear end out and will be taking leaf springs out as well.  I will search the forum to see if there are replacement leaf springs available.  I will get pics up soon and search archive for information on things I need or would like to have.  Thanks as always guys...

 

Green Light Grady G.

BTW...my Grandfather Richard Lichtfeld, who is president of the AMERICAN PEERLESS CLUB, is really slowing down.  Mentally he is sharp as always but is such a die hard is refuses help and it is really putting a fire under me to get this GT done.  As it would be truly amazing to see him drive the GT and get a pic of both of us with it and or video driving.  So if I ask some redundant questions or fail to find things i need in the archive I apologize in advance for posting things that may or may not already be addressed.  

 

So thank you everyone and since I am very green with mechanical work, and lack the wisdom you all have like my Grandfather, please bear with me on some things.  I will be forever indebted to you all if I am able to get this car done by summer.

 

If anyone would like to call me ever about anything my cell is 1 920 222 2824.  The shop # is 1 608 222 5890.

 

Good day Gentlemen 



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Thanks Dean those numbers are going to help I think.  Really appreciate it sir.

 

Be in touch

Green Light Grady



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Nigel, here is the pics of what I was referring to in the message.  Rich Schulenberg who owns cruzin classics and will be doing the body work and paint.  Hope this works, wish I could load pics into personal messages, but this should suffice. 



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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never seen those holes round the headlamps before, dont think they're factory and really serve no purpose unless they were to hold the inner flange for the headlamp buckets?

I have seen (owned) a couple of phase 1 cars where a second rim has been fitted to bring the headlamp bucket forward so a standard Lucas 7" rim could be fitted instead of the Peerless one.

second pic looks to be the hole on the inner flitch that takes cables?

3 & 4, dont know what I'm looking at blankstare



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At a guess, I'd say pics 3 & 4 are the r/h (UK driver side) wheel well. First looking forward, second looking back. But for what reason, I don't know.

Re the holes around the headlight, when I first got my car it came complete with the standard circular chrome headlight rims that were commonplace on cars of that era (Mini etc.) and which the vendor swore fitted perfectly. To make them do so, they had been screwed to the body at various points similar to Grady's car. Certainly not as many. In fact only a couple but in a similar position.

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Nigel, Those other pics are the wheel wells I asked you about in the message.  Theres a bumpy coating in the wheel wells.  Is this the way they came from factory or is this something someone else did?  In one corner there is a little flake starting as well.  What do your wheel wells have? 

 

Thanks

GLG



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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all these cars have been modified/changed/improved and generally buggered about with over the years!

I would think that the general finish to the wheel arches from the factory would have been a post mould finish (relatively smooth) 

I would suggest a smoothish finish would be good as it wont hold onto mud and grime so easily. Mine are smoothish and coated black.

 



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Thanks

I have the diff. apart.  I need what bearings go on the left and right side inside the pumkin where the piece that connects the half shafts spins.  I can find sealed bearings but what came out was open bearings that are oiled from the inside of the pumkin.  Or should I just use the sealed bearings?  Someone said I may be able to order those and then carefully pull the seals off.  I would just like to get the right ones if possible.  Earlier in this thread, a gentlemen gave the list of seals and bearings for the diff. but these were not listed.

Thanks again

GLG



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Finally got the springs out as well as the shocks ect.  Will be asking more detailed ?'s as I get closer to rebuilding the front end with new bushings and whatever else is needed.

Thanks Green Light Grady and my Grandfather RHL.

IMG_1715.JPGIMG_1714.JPGIMG_1713.JPGIMG_1712.JPGIMG_1711.JPGIMG_1704.JPGIMG_1703.JPGIMG_1706.JPGIMG_1709.JPGIMG_1704.JPG

 

 

 



-- Edited by GT200D62 on Monday 30th of March 2020 09:14:39 PM

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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"



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Looking good!

It looks like this car has really very little rust after all those years?



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After a lot of De de de de greasing lol bolts and nuts come off fairly well.  California car makes a big difference!



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RHL "Collector of Fine Scrap Iron"

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