The Peerless & Warwick Discussion Forum

OddBrit · Status: Offline

RE: Restoration of Irish Peerless?Warwick

Erik V · Status: Offline

Hi Jim,

On my car there's only one and that is mounted beteen the driveshaft and differential.

The half shafts only have uj's.

For the dimensions you need, i could drive to my storage tommorow to take some measurements.

Frank · Status: Offline

The flanges on the halfshafts at the outer ends are just over half an inch clear of the chassis at normal ride height. There are rubber bump stops under the de-dion tube to stop them chewing lumps out of the chassis as the suspension unloads. Under compression the limit is when the spare wheel well hits the tarmac, or the shackles at the back of the springs run out of travel. Stiffer rear springs are highly recommended for enthusiastic progress.

Do not expect the layrub "donut" at the front of the diff to tolerate any drive line misalignment, or it will chew itself to bits, treat it as a shock absorber and it will last. If you can't insert the layrub bolts under finger pressure then either the engine of the diff is in the wrong place.

Good luck!

F

OddBrit · Status: Offline

Eric - My car has a u joint at rear of shaft and a splined joint at front.

Frank - Thanks for the measurement. It appears the Irish car (as I got it) had a couple changes to possibly improve downward (drop) suspension travel. First it had tube shocks fitted. 2) The front to back straight tubes that go under the rear hub inner flanges you mentioned have been made from 2 tubes in a V which moved the tubes under the flange area of the hub about 2" inwards so the hub doesn't hit them. Last the frame does not have any rubber buffers mounted under the dedion tube. I believe they used the tube shock at the limiter.

Thanks again for the info guys.

nigel c · Status: Offline

Hi JIm,

Does your horizontal tubes look like this at the rear? don't get confused with the weird looking steel over the diff and on the angled side tubes, this is for seat belt fixings!

OddBrit · Status: Offline

No. The tube the runs parallel to the leaf spring in the photo appears all the way along its axis. There is another tube in the photo that runs at an angle from the center of the car (at the front) and goes outward as it goes back. There appears to be a small tab (maybe to hold exhaust) between these tubes right under the half shaft. Left call this POINT A.

In the Irish car the tube the goes from center of car and run outward towards back of car is the same BUT the tube that runs parallel to the leaf spring has runs from the same location at front and intersects the other tube at Point A (under the halfshaft). It then continues on an angle to the rear cross tubes. This effectively move the tube 1.5 - 2" inwards where it runs under the halfshaft, giving the half shaft flange more room to move downward. It appears the dedion tube still has issues but it gives you a little more droop in the suspension. I'll see if I can get some photos this weekend when I'm in the garage.

nigel c · Status: Offline

yea a photo launches a thousand ships and all that.... this chassis is not the standard layout as the out tube that is parallel with the spring is inset, it should line up with that vertical tube (behind the damper)

Erik V · Status: Offline

Would it be a good (but expensive) idea to put an lsd in to prevent the lifting inside wheel from spinning?

Anyone doen that?

Frank · Status: Offline

I looked at that when I was sourcing Jag diffs.

The problem with this is that the driveshafts are already at the upper limit of their load specification. It's worst in first and second gears.

Sending all the torque down one shaft, or even worse, doing it intermittently as the wheel spins will quickly trash the shafts.

Ian McD / Celia also tell me that the chassis structure won't cope with the torque loads caused by sticky rubber. Essentially it protects itself from overload damage by spinning the wheels and sliding.

I believe that stiffer springs, lower ride height, and a front rollbar to keep the wheels on the ground for longer is a better approach.

Frank

Frank · Status: Offline

I looked at that when I was sourcing Jag diffs.

The problem with this is that the driveshafts are already at the upper limit of their load specification. It's worst in first and second gears.

Sending all the torque down one shaft, or even worse, doing it intermittently as the wheel spins will quickly trash the shafts.

Ian McD / Celia also tell me that the chassis structure won't cope with the torque loads caused by sticky rubber. Essentially it protects itself from overload damage by spinning the wheels and sliding.

I believe that stiffer springs, lower ride height, and a front rollbar to keep the wheels on the ground for longer is a better approach.

Frank

nigel c · Status: Offline

there's always the wide selection of ali sierra diffs/Lobro shafts/CV joints and TR6 ali hubs

Erik V · Status: Offline

Excellent reply Frank.

Sounds very clear to me.

I've driven your Phase 2 back in 2006 but tbh it's too long ago to remember that clearly.

I do still know it drove very well.

Sierra diff is at least lighter that the original cast iron monster biggrin