I really think your biggest problem would be the dashboard...although someone "over there" must be able to help....Dean's good with GRP and he might make you one?
All the rest is standard Triumph except the drag link.
As Nigel hinted, I would indeed offer to make you a LHD dash surround, but I reinforced mine and made it an integral part of the body, so it would be difficult to use it as a mold. The gauge cluster is still free, but I suspect that you would need both parts to facilitate a complete conversion.
If you had your RHD dash, I wouldn't think it was would not be too difficult to cut the opening larger on the left side and form a radius for the glove "box". You might even be able to cut out the steering wheel notch and glass it into the left side when moving the blank piece to the right.
Let me know if I can help. We are moving from Southern California to Northern California, so much of the Peerless and Warwick stuff is packed and ready to go.
The most difficult part of the operation (by a very long way) is the steering box.
All the other bits, LHD dash, wiring loom, pedals, are irritants by comparison.
Even though it looks the same, a Peerless column is shorter than a TR3, and a LHD box has different castings to a RHD, because the worm is on the other side. You can't re-use the one you've got.
All other parts of the steering will swap over, no problem. If you have a "genuine" unmodified chassis all the bolt holes are there for you.
Now, the chances of finding a spare LHD Peerless/Warwick box are very, vey slim. Chicken lips, seriously. There are some LHD TR3 boxes around in the UK, these are usually binned when a TR3 gets repatriated but theyare around if you know where to ask.
If you use a TR3 LHD steering box, the steering wheel will be about 4" too close to you, and the spiral cover will be flopping about. Even with the adjustment at the outer limit, its obviously wrong. It may be that this doesn't worry you, and Celia/Ian race the Warwick with this configuration.
Moss Europe still list the LHD worm, and if you have access to a steering magician then it will be possible to shrink a new worm on at the correct column length. Alternatively re-cut the grooves for the column adjustment fitting further down, and cut the excess off. When I tried to get this done in the UK, nobody anywhere would take the job on, because of product liability/insurance concerns.
A more practical solution is to fit a rack, although it will take some effort to get it mounted in the right place to minimise bump steer problems. Eric De V can probably help you out here if you want to go this route.
Actually, if you get to drive one, you'll realise that with the rather limited visibility it doesn't matter a lot which side you sit, all you can see in traffic are 4x4 wheelnuts and armco.
You're right Frank, the lengths are quite different.
However the tube and box are soldered with tin, and with some effort the tube can be swapped to a LHD steering box.
With the help of a jig and a big enough blow torch it must be possible.
Carefully cutting of the RHD worm from the column must also be possible, but if I remember correctly the end of the column is flared into the chamfer inside the end of the worm?
I didn't get that deep in, Eric. I found the replacement worms and it looked like they were a parallel (shrunk on) fit. The column outer tube was just a push-fit in the casting.
I can remember making a splined shaft as an apprentice and it was a mind-numbing job, it took me a week to make a passable fit, and here you'd need a big enough lathe to take the steering column.
To summarise, shortening a steering column to get a TR3 LHD steering box to fit is a job for a dedicated professional. A rack conversion is the most practical solution.
As an aside, have you planned your 2018 holidays yet, and do you fancy a ride out in the Warwick to the TR International?
