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Post Info TOPIC: Peerless #37


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Peerless #37


Thanks to Gary I now have a set of Peerless badges for my car.

I bought my car (#37) around May 2010. After almost 6 years I thought I should give an update.

This is when I first got the car.

 

And this is it now!

 

 
Ok, so I have hardly done anything to it;  apart from get it off the truck.

However - the eagle-eyed among you will notice I have actually replaced the clear light indicator lenses at front with amber ones.

And it is now sporting a red door.

The reason I haven't done anything is because I have been restoring another car.

 

Hang on,  I'll remove the cover

  

 

That's better,  this one is pretty much finished. It's a Daimler SP250. The Peerless door was used to experiment with some different sanding/buffing options,  which is why it is now red.

 

But it's now time to turn my attention to the Peerless and to ask endless questions on the forum.

The first main task is still; fit the doors (you can see my original post in the topic Peerless Down Under).

 

I have already cut new hinge plates and am going to cut new door mounting plates.

I plan to bond 6 L-shaped brackets with captive nut to the inside of both front guards where the door mounting plate would fit.

This will allow me to bolt the mounting plate to the chassis and the body.

However if there is a different/better way of doing this, please let me know.

 

Regards

Bruce



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Bruce


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Hi Bruce,

Great to see you have started again with the car although I fully understand you had better things to be getting on with! always like the SP250 and I keep seeing one around

in gun metal grey and acrylic pods over the headlamps and no bumpers....mmmmmmm I could be swayed you know....sayin that I just bought another car.............................

 

Anyhoo, keep it up and keep posting

 

 



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Quick question

How do you remove the dashboard - I can`t see any mounting bolts but something is holding it in.
I want to remove it to be able to fit the new door hinge mounting plates.

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Bruce


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whoa there tiger, be careful! You will have to find a way to support the"top deck" as its only the top of the dash that keeps this from sagging.

The main fixings (well on mine anyway) are the two wiper arm mounts. These are also very important when you are trying to line the body up on the chassis etc as they

are key to getting that area inline.

make sure you've removed all the old carpet/felt/sound proofing/fur/leopard skin print etc from the glove box etc just in case there's a pop rivet or bolt in there and corresponding

ones behind the clocks. Saying that, all the cars Ive worked on were just held together by the wiper mounts. However, I did bolt mine back in as these made good earthing points as well!

 

Another flag up here IF it helps. Not sure what weather you encounter over there but if you need to demist your screen I strongly advise that you improve the air feed to the passengers side.

This is supposedly a GRP pocket built into the top of the dash that transfers hot air .......its crap! Phase 2 was amended and they did a far better job. And lets face it, if your passengers going

to scream they might as well see what their potentially screaming about omfg.gif

If you can widen/deepen this all to the good. I wish I had. make sure you can still clear all the feeds coming in from the engine bay etc but go for it...and

don't get me started on the position/spacing of the wiper mounts anyway.....no.



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Hi

 

Happy New Year to all from Down Under.

So this year I really am starting the restoration.

I took some quick measurements of the car, and it's only out by about 5 mm here and there.

The body sits about 5mm further to the left, than than the right, and the clearance between the front of the front wheel arch and wheel is a few mm greater on the right than the left.

I don't want to take the body of the chassis so will live with these little differences.

 

I was able to remove the dash, so I can fit the door hinge mounting plates.

 

It seems that once the hinges are mounted to the plate, and the mounting plates are bolted and bonded in place, then there's no way for them to come out again.  So I need to get them positioned properly to start with.

 

Which leads to some questions:

1. What do I do with the void behind the mounting hinge plates?  anything or nothing?

2. From inside the engine bay, there is a gap between the chassis frame, nearest firewall, and outer fender/front guard panel. Should this be filled, or is there always a gap? or is this where I access the door hinge if I needed to adjust it or remove it?

3. Regarding the dash, what have people done to allow ventilation for driver and passenger. Has anyone included air vents in the dash, or have you added separate air vents (if so, where), or do you all just swelter in the heat?

 

Thanks

Bruce

 



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Bruce


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Many childhood stories of sweltering in the heat whilst queuing to get.into shows or running the heater to cool the engine...believe electric fans were added with an extra shroud!? No extra vents added to my knowledge though.

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ha haa yes Allison I remember your dad sitting on the side of the road eating his picnic as his engine had seized in the traffic waiting to get into the show at Bromley!

Bruce, don't worry about the discrepancies in minor measurements on these cars. The master for mold was hand built as were the molds themselves and  then they were stood around on uneven floors no doubt so nothing

and I mean nothing is quite straight and true. if you want to get twisted about sizes go measure the length of the rear sections of the front wings and the total length of the doors....OH and whilst I'm on this subject, try putting your hands flat, one either side of the bonnet aperture (thumbs touching the aperture) at the very front....... fell the curvature of the wing going up towards the headlamps.....not very even is it?

I can hear your eyebrows rising from here!

Don't worry, when will you ever see both side of the car at the same time..........if you do, boy you is in trouble!

 

questions:

 

1. What do I do with the void behind the mounting hinge plates?  anything or nothing?

Some people fit servo units in there. I've dropped a windscreen washer/water bag from an MGB down the one side and also built (into the top of that area) a header tank and puke bottle for the water system.

2. From inside the engine bay, there is a gap between the chassis frame, nearest firewall, and outer fender/front guard panel. Should this be filled, or is there always a gap? or is this where I access the door hinge if I needed to adjust it or remove it?

Really need a photo of this and cant get my head around where you are.....adjusting the door hinge....have you got any more funnies like that you can share..........biggrin

3. Regarding the dash, what have people done to allow ventilation for driver and passenger. Has anyone included air vents in the dash, or have you added separate air vents (if so, where), or do you all just swelter in the heat?

I know that FJ has fitted tubes from below the front side/indicator lights through to the bottom of the foot wells to allow fresh air into his feet....tis nice I must say. Not seen any other mods. I have fitted a Y gate on the output of the heater box so I can dump all

interior heater air straight out under the car instead of into the cabin when in traffic. My new idea is to look into a better two way interior heater fan so, when in traffic I can suck air from the heater box out the front of the car wink

 



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Thanks Nigel

 

I have been in touch with Dean to see what he has done for extra ventilation.

 

So, some other questions:

I need to get a new wiring loom.

Are they still available from Autosparks?

I remember there was some earlier confusion about whether a Peerless wiring loom was really for a Peerless or a Warwick.

My other (& cheaper) option is to get a universal wiring loom.

 

The other question is, the previous owner removed the petrol tanks form the sills and put one in the boot, so what have people done with the empty sills in similar circumstances?

 

Regards



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Bruce


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Bruce. For your information, I got a Peerless loom from Autosparks a couple of years ago now. Sadly, it's not fitted yet but on the plus side, I can advise that I've been through it fairly thoroughly and compared it to the original wiring diagram and it appears to be in order. I've also tried it against the bare chassis and there are no problems regarding the lengths of the wiring. It seems to run front to back with no obvious problems.

I had Autosparks add wiring for hazards and front and rear heated screen along with electric fan. The only thing I think I need to add are relays and a fuse box.

Can't remember the cost but with my lack of electrical skills, it was well worth it.


Mike R-F



-- Edited by mikerf on Thursday 4th of January 2018 07:19:15 PM

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Hi

just planning (dreaming) of when my car is driveable and I have started to wonder about front seats.

I have to redo all the interior and was wondering if any of you have replaced your front seats with something from another car model?

If so - what have you used?

I have thoughts about adding headrests to the existing seats (unlikely I would have thought) or replacing them with a period high back seat with headrest.

Any thoughts.

Bruce

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Bruce


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I did think that I would like headrests etc when doing a lot of travelling and so went on the hunt for a seat that would fit. this turned out to be very difficult as the Peerless is very narrow between transmission tunnel and sill.

You only have about 16 1/2".

the only seats I found after measuring lots at classic car shows etc were Suzuki Cappuccino. A small K car from the 90's

As you can see a marked difference in style but there were very comfortable, tilt forward, recline etc BUT you lose all the rear legroom and they look very 70's when in the car (you need slot mags to go with them!)

If they were trimmed with piping/vents etc they may look better.

holly runseats 005.jpg



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I have a couple of "aftermarket" seats for sale that I used in the Warwick, very reasonable price to Peerless owners. Steel framed, doesn't flex when cornering, complete with mounts.  Shown next to the determined original seat for comparison.

 

F

IMG_20190424_132605_1.jpg



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Retrimmed

******* Spellcheck

F



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Greetings from Australia

Still no progress to speak of - but a question.

In this photo of the front wheel area, is there supposed to be any splash guards in the 2 areas hilighted in red? (or are they left open?)

I would be interested to see photos of what other cars have.

 

Regards

Bruce

 

IMG_20220103_175330c.jpg

 



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Bruce


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Hi Bruce,

great to hear form you! I've gone looking in all my photos and I cant find what I wanted to show you so you'll just have to live with a thousand words instead disbelief

Front section.

stays open (as far as I know but you just wait there'll be som....) and this helps when you wan to get to the steering idler grease nipple/fixings etc.

rear section. 

"should" go straight down at the front edge to the chassis BUT I have made a separate panel that goes over this area (draw in light blue) so it can be removed to get at the oil filter AND it covers that exposed chassis rail ( bottom darker blue line) that gets a lot of road ****e thrown at it.

Self tapered on and when removed gives good access.

On the other side of the car I've made the same shape etc but fixed/glassed in

 

Hope this helps....

 IMG_20220103_175330c_LI.jpg

 

IF you're going to run knock-ons with 5.5j rims and 185 X 70 profile tyres then I found they rub on the flat panels front and back evileye

 

I did this mod to alleviate the worst of the rubbing ( the day I fitted the tyres....which was the night before the "royal we" went on holiday biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

 

this was a quick mold made from plastic and waxed for good measure

 IMG_20190618_192929 (Large) (2021_01_09 12_06_08 UTC).jpg

 

cut the hole, smeared P40/bondo with glass strands on the flat edges, angled it into the hole and holding the black gaffa tape pulled it backward so it stuck to the inner face of the original flat panel...I think the black finishing was still drying when we boarded the ferry doh

 

 

   IMG_20190618_192941 (Large) (2021_01_09 12_06_08 UTC).jpg  IMG_20190618_200441 (Large) (2021_01_09 12_06_08 UTC).jpg



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Hello Bruce,

This is how I tackled the rear inner dirt shields for my customers car, similar to the dirt shields I made for my own. I used removable cable ties to eliminate drilling into the chassis tubes. The screws only fix to GRP.

The shields are aluminium and painted in EM121 from rust.co.uk

All the best,

Gary



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Rust Never Sleeps - Cavity Wax and Valium Should Do It


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that's the kinda thing, well done Gary



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Gary's shields are lovely!  The Warwick comes with similar deflector plates over the chassis as standard.  They keep some of the road dirt out, or the oil mist and heat in, according to your point of view.

However they are a real pain when changing the oil filter, adjusting the clutch, or getting to the brake light switch.

F



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Thanks Nigel and Gary

 

That makes it quite clear.



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Bruce


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Hi

I have just done some work on the wheel arch flat panels (there were some repairs required from when the body was reunited with the chassis), put the wheels back on and confirmed that they will indeed foul the front and back panels. 

The wheels are 185/70.

So 2 questions:

Nigel: From your picture - it looks as though you've given yourself an extra 1cm clearance. Does that seem about right?

 

Also: What tyre size are others using? I understand the orginal 5.50 x 15 is closest to 155/80R15.

 

Regards

Bruce



-- Edited by Bruce on Saturday 15th of January 2022 10:45:43 AM

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Bruce


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Hi Bruce,

Yea, I would say probably nearer to 15mm extended on the front wheel arch panel. Take a good look a the rear of the front wheel arch to as mine are still rubbing.

try and get this panel as close to the steel panel (of the footwell wall) as possible.

Tyre size. I think becuase I'm all Carlos Fandango and have wider rims and tyres and wires I am at the extreme for these cars without heavier mods.

155 I thinks a little on the skinny side for 5.5J rims? 

 



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Hi

I have rechecked and the wheels seem to foul only on the back panels. 

 

Nigel - I can see what you mean about getting close to the metal footwell. I have a smal gap between the metal footwell and the fibreglass panel in front - so I might be able to recess the fibreglass panel a little.

 

Looking at tyres, the most common available size that should fit would be 185/65R15.

 

Regards

Bruce



-- Edited by Bruce on Saturday 15th of January 2022 10:45:43 AM



-- Edited by Bruce on Tuesday 18th of January 2022 10:16:57 AM

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Bruce


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yea I ran my car for years on 185 X 65 X 15's as my wife's daily euro-box used these and she kept getting punctures and I run tubes biggrin and didn't have any real wheel arch clearance problems.

 BUT I have now treated myself (and it was one big bloody treat I can tell you!) to a set of 185 X 70 X 15 Pirelli Cinturato's and the difference in ride height was a shock. On paper there's only about 6mm but a good improvement on the road but clearance issues did arise.

I'm sure part of it is due to the off-set of my wires (perhaps compared to steels?) and the extra width of the rims

Not sure what your availability is over there Bruce but a quick web check threw up these

https://www.blockleytyre.com/product/185-70vr15

 

https://www.vintagetyres.com/shop/vredestein-sprint-classic-185-70vr15-89w-1035

 

https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/pirelli-collezione/cinturato-cn36/185-70wr15-pirelli-cinturato-cn36-n5.html 

 

Sporting my new rubber at a car meeting on the Isle of Wight and waiting for the ferry...makes you realise how big euro-boxes have become!

I.O.W. 2019.jpg    IOW ferry 2019 (2021_01_09 12_06_08 UTC).jpg



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Hi

 

I can certainly get 185/70R15 - but they are not as plentiful as 185/65R15.

I have marked where the tyres hit the back flatboard and cut out a section. 

The board was about 6-7mm thick in this part.

IMG_20220119_182647_4.jpg

 

Now I need to tidy and square up the hole, and make a mold to glass up behind the hole.

 



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Bruce


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that will save some weight!

 



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Plus 1 as a recomendation for Pirelli Cinturato tyres. A step up from the Vredestein's i ran for a number of years in terms of ride quality, road noise and grip. The wheel offset required a small amount of the inner edge of the wheel arch had to be removed (phase 2)but it was worth the work.
Will

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So I have been practicing origami to get the shape for the inner dirt shield as shown in Gary's photo.

I made a paper version first and worked out the dimensions and fold lines, and ater testing on the car, I then made a card template

 IMG_20220228_172951_3.jpgIMG_20220228_173003.jpg

 

 

After testing this on the car I made the shield out of thin aluminium, and test fitted to the car.

IMG_20220228_173239.jpgIMG_20220228_173126_3.jpg

I did templates for both driver and passenger side - naturally they were different dimensions.

I only used 0.5mm aluminium and I'm wondering whether that is really a bit too thin - although it was easy to work with.

I did fold all the edges to give a bit more rigidity.

My options are either; a) leave it as ; b) use it as a mold and lay up a fibreglass shield, or c) refold in thicker aluminium.

Knowing me - either a or b will win out.

I also glassed in the hole I made in the rearsection of the wheelarch to give a bit of wheel clearance. On a static test one tyre will still just rub on full lock - but given I am most likely going to opt for the slightly smaller tyre size (185/65) it should turn out to be ok.



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Bruce


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Now I want to turn my attention to the rear wheel arch.

Firstly, the chassis seems to have been modified to strenthen the front spring bolt attachment as it has an extra upright section.

IMG_20220228_175126_2.jpg

 

The springs on mine are standard Peerless - ie it has the flat bar on the bottom.

IMG_20220228_175256_2.jpg

I've read on other posts about removing this flat bar, of upgrading to heavy duty TR4 springs and adding a separate leaf etc.

Would someone be able to explain this a bit further, eg is there a spring rate we are aiming for, where does the other leaf go etc?

I now need to fabricate an inner arch - the rear section has been done, but nothing on the front.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to how this is constructed - I just have a big empty space.

Front of non-existent arch:

 IMG_20220228_175139_4.jpg

 

Front of arch looking up:

 IMG_20220228_175143_5.jpg

Top of arch:

IMG_20220228_175149_4.jpg

Top of arch looking rearward:

 IMG_20220228_175153.jpg

 

Is the intention to get a complete arch from front to back?

To what does the arch attach to on the inside - eg the red outlined area in this picture?

IMG_20220228_175641_2p.jpg

 

Any pictures or descriptions would be great.

 

Thanks



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Bruce


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Hi Bruce.

Re the front leaf spring shackle, my guess is that this is an alteration to accommodate the standard TR3/a/4 bolt which is a bit longer than the Peerless one. In fact, it's something I've done myself but I sleeved the new inner upright in the same way that the original, outer upright was sleeved. However, unlike Peerless, I welded the sleeves into the uprights. Plenty of Coppaslip will hopefully ensure the bolt doesn't seize.

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I now need to fabricate an inner arch - the rear section has been done, but nothing on the front. I'm at a bit of a loss as to how this is constructed - I just have a big empty space.

Pictures are in earlier post. 

Is the intention to get a complete arch from front to back? To what does the arch attach to on the inside?

Any pictures or descriptions would be great.

Thanks



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Bruce
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