According to the "Instruction Book" the chassis number can also be "found on chassis down tube." Ok, where is the "down tube" and where on it is the chassis number? No. 145 came without a VIN plate and it would be nice to be able to confirm the no. on the title. Thanks.
John
Look on the outside of the paired tubes, about three inches back from the front Right Rand side.
There will be a small 1.5 x 3 inch plate which may have a number on it. Don't expect it to be readable, most have rusted away. The other problem is that this may not match the number on the body plate, it may not have done when it was built, and nobody recorded which one goes with which.
Another location that may help is in the centre of the roof, under the headlining. My Phase 2 had the works order paperwork bonded, but still readable under the GRP there. My Warwick has the body number there in three inch high letters.
You will also find that many of the body parts, such as door cards, show a body number but again you may have a variety of these, and they may not match the body plate.
If you are sure it's #00145, then replacement body plates are available. They look much better if you can find some period number stamps because modern ones are the wrong font.
Look on the outside of the paired tubes, about three inches back from the front Right Rand side.
There will be a small 1.5 x 3 inch plate which may have a number on it. Don't expect it to be readable, most have rusted away. The other problem is that this may not match the number on the body plate, it may not have done when it was built, and nobody recorded which one goes with which.
Are the paired tubes the ones inboard of the fuel tanks? Does this require removing the fuel tank?
Thanks Frank,
Cheers, John
My chassis tag, which didn't match my VIN either, was located just above the text "yahoo" in the lower right of the attached photo. It is a small stamped plate that appeared to be welded onto the chassis after it was completed. Why it doesn't match the VIN number is unclear. As far as I could tell my chassis and body were never separated.
Thanks Dean, it's a very clear picture. Perhaps the chassis and VIN numbers are like the Commissioning and body numbers on my TR4, close but not the same. I have been told by a TR expert that this is normal for TR4s.
Happy Hollidays,
John
I think you will find that when the car was under assembly in the factory it was referred to by the chassis plate number (and the numbers daubed in black paint as frank mentions) but when it came to the final number/identity it seems anyone could stamp it up (using slight abbreviations) and pop down the post office!
On a completly different subject, is the spring compressor in Deans photo of the chassis the actual Triumph item or a home made effort? Either way, it must be relativly easy to make one up from scratch. I remember having a devil of a job trying to use conventional spring compressors when taking the suspension apart. I think I resorted to a heavy body (my son) and a trolly jack (health & safety? What health & safety?). Anyone have a idea of the necessary sizes to make one up? Treating myself to a set of Polybushes for Christmas.
A length of 12mm studding (B&Q, comes in 1 mtr lengths) and at least 2 nuts each end will do it at reasonable cost. Don't use stainless, the nuts will jam.
That's providing that you've managed to remove the bottom shock mount arrangement and the stud at the back of the wishbone doesn't move istead of the nut.
first time I did this job I borrowed one of a TR Freind.......but they can go in from the top. I/we cant due to body clearance (when the bodies on of course!) so best to wind it up from the underneath.
