Thanks, Gary! That is very useful. I hope to soon replace the Bright Regulators in my doors, as they are so worn the glass drops an inch when in the 'up' position.
yea I was thinkin ali as well but good point Frank it under a lot of strain. I'll drop my one frilly one in at my local fabricators and see what they think costwise.
I agree the ali would need be thick and T6 preferably. I'm still working on a design for hanging the doors on improved 'L' shape brackets, and reducing the stress the doors take with the regulator and glass.
Got there with the Landy. Back on four wheels and running again, but still plenty to do. No change there then.
OK, I've watched several re-runs of Papa smurf opening the window Gangnam style. (You have to imagine the music)
However if this is to work in a Peerless, you have to find a way to mount the 9" Vice inside the door aperture. The mechainsm generates bags of torque and I found that the (Phase 2) arrangements of upper and lower mounting plates struggled to cope. (its an action-reaction thing)
In the end I mounted the window winder on a single sheet of 16G steel (that's 1.6mm) that was held by the door hinge bolts.
This sounds like overkill, even by Peerless standards, but seemed to work, even when desperate (Think passenger window, French toll-booth, Le-Mans traffic and raining frogs and newts)
I'll have a look at the weekend, but I think the photos went to Richard Craig, with the car.
If you want blisfully smooth Phase 1 door hinges, you have to look at Pete Hudpspith's PH1. I don't know how he did it, but it beats a VW Golf.
if the mechanism is moving then I wouldn't recommend dismantling it.
I kept on flushing mine with plenty of parts washer fluid and penetrating fluid to flush out the crud. Diesel or white spirit should work, too.
It eventually freed up nicely. I did consider dismantling but was loathe to reassemble the coiled spring if it could be avoided. I concluded it wouldn't come apart without some hefty manhandling and I didn't want to risk the casing cracking.
This is the Peerless wrecking gang. Dismantle it, it's not a problem.
The bit that will most likely break is the "ears" on the thinner (square) spring, and it's usually because it's corroded. So "forcing" the mechanism if it's frozen solid from corrosion, or rust, or lack of lube puts extra strain on this area. Soaking it in diesel will help it to come apart without a problem, and a good handful of grease on re-asembly will help the operation. Don't use the black CV joint grease, or the window will creep down in service.
It's the friction of the square brake spring against the ally housing that holds the window in position, and the tension in the flat tape wind-up spring that compensates for the weight of the glass. The only bit of the housing that usually breaks are the flanges that bolt to the doors.
The units can be assembled LHS and RHS by reversing the flat tape wind-up spring.
If you have broken a spring I have a very limited quantity of spares. (but don't tell anyone!)
After 48 hours soaking it was still jammed solid so rather than forcing it I have just dismantled the regulator. The springs are fine, it is the back plate that is the problem - it has dissintegrated!
Looking at the pile of bits here, the clue is the square "washer" in the picture.
What seems to have happened is that the centre of the backplate has worn it's square hole, probably from forcing an unlubricated mechanism, or a jammed window glass. Is the brass frame out of true, and does the glass slide easily?
Anyway the local repair was to fix a square washer to the backplate and re-instate the square hole. And the two fixing holes stressed the backplate beyond it's (weakened) capacity.
So before you fit the replacement backplate that's in the post to you, check that the window moves freely.
For those with the same problem, backplates are as rare as chicken lips!
To do the repair properly, form a 4mm x 20mm steel strip into a square insert that fits tightly over the square shaft of the drive pin. Open out the damaged hole in the backplate to a square so that the little square insert you just made just fits inside it. Fettle till the bits fit nice and tight and then gloo the new insert in the backplate with a bit of araldite.
I've been trying to post a Flickr picture but it doesn't want to play.
Thank you, the plate arrived safely. You are right, the square plate is the remains of a bodge by the look of things. I have completed a trial assembly and it all works perfectly.
Can't see the ends of the brake spring poking out. That could be why there's free play.
Also, the Peerless actuator arm is lengthened to put the pivot into the C of G of the pane.
I have some spare bits if you are stuck!
With the re-birth of this thread, and after comments from Dean last week at a show about window winders, my mind went back to winders in #118. A quick google found this document, that's a good read and resource.