I have found a UK company willing to make alloy radiators based on my original reconditioned Peerless Phase 1 version. I've asked them to include a radiator fan thermo switch hole, to be sited on the top left of the rad, and suitable for most radiator fan switches. I'll post pics in due course. I've asked they use the most efficient core they can within the space of the original.
The idea is to produce an off-the-shelf radiator. For US owners, they also have a strong presence there, too.
Please let me know of any alterations you would like to see to the original radiator which could be incorporated into the design.
Just an idea. On my tanks I had the outlet pipes put at either end of the tanks. Off-side at the front, near side at the rear.
The reason? well when I had them built I lived at a house that had a very steep drive and thought I could potently run out of petrol on the drive....as it turns out I run out of petrol everywhere
As a breather I used Montego diesel filler pipes. These come with an integral breather pipe, very neat and it works.
Ron Davis Radiators built my aluminum radiator using a CNC machine faithfully reproducing my Phase 1 original. They are set up to produce copies. I fronted a lot of the initial engineering costs. Your copies should be far less expensive than what I paid.
Not wishing to ruin your fun Gary, but have you considered a LR rad as a cheaper option?
I found that the design of the Peerless radiator meant that vibration in the top box section caused the metal to harden and crack in the corners. And the filler cap is in just the right place to lean when you are in amongst the machinery. After 2 professional and two home radiator rebuilds, and reinforcing the inner corners with brass plates, I sold the car.
I know that Ali and brass have different resistance to vibration but I believe that some sort of additional support web underneath the top filler section would be essential to get reliability. But the water pump is in the way....
This time round with the Warwick I'm using a Land Rover Discovery radiator, as used by Celia & Ian on the racing Warwick. If it'll cool a V8 it should cope with a TR3.
It's an Ali core with plastic ends, and is wide rather than high to better match the air scoop. It's a bit of a challenge to get the lower return pipe to clear the steering arm, but it does fit between the chassis rails, and under the bonnet with no body mods. Comes with a built-in oil cooler and retails just over a hundred notes. You will need to provide a seperate header/filler tank but this improves the water retention no end even on a standard car.
It doesn't look too out-of place either.
I'll try to get some pictures when I can get to the car in daylight.
Thanks Frank for the LR tip. Me and Landy's are great friends as anyone following my S3 exploits in the mag of late will know. Pics would be good.
I'll be exploring all the possibilities owners can provide me with. The extra webbing is a great tip, for example. If the rad could be widened to fill the space, even better. Or perhaps sited off centre to allow fresh air to blast through to the carbs and interior ventilation? Just my ideas.
Please keep them coming.
Dean,
your rad looks great. I'm keen to provide an off-the-shelf solution for UK/European owners who might need one in a hurry, rather than ship from the States. I couldn't see a cost for yours?
I was quoted $1200 for a new radiator from Roy's based on the patterns made from Dean's original. Roughly 750 quid, excluding shipping. Lead time 2.5 weeks, and so the most likely route I'll take
As for Bill at Roy's he was extremely knowledgeable and helpful
Dave
any space left to one side/top/bottom of a radiator will just accelerate the air through that portion and not through the radiator which is the priority.and trust me its a priority!
I sugest extra air intakes for all your "special needs"
FastRads brand new LR802 for LR Discovery Deisel is £134 including VAT and delivery.
On two occasions I've paid about this to have a Peerless radiator professionally repaired, and it was leaking at the corner seams again within a year. I believe that vibration in the unsupported filler neck is the cause of the problem.
I can understand keeping an original radiator, or making an alloy copy of an original. If it's not an original then this is hard to beat.
My radiator and fuel tanks are now with a company who will replicate them in alloy with a few additions.
The rad will have additional strengthening to its expansion tank area. The core will probably be uprated as standard. Looking at their modern alloy cores, I'm confident it will dissipate heat far better than the original. It will have an electric fan switch threaded hole (blanking plug available if not required). No pics yet but will post as soon as they have one.
The fuel tanks will be made 10mm lower than original to help anyone having problems with doors/sill tread plates following restoration work. Cell foam will be fitted, reducing fire/explosion risks, and curing fuel sloshing. The fuel tank senders are likely to be widely available (less expensive, less likely to seize) modern units. More soon.