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Post Info TOPIC: Peerless Down Under
BruceT

Date:
Peerless Down Under


Hi

I've bought Gareth's Peerless #37 and after a slow boat trip it arrived in Australia and to my home last week.



Now comes the task of unpacking the bits and pieces and continuing the work that Gareth had undertaken.

The car arrived in one piece. The biggest issue seemed to be that once it was ready to pick up, no one could work out how to release the handbrake so they got a forklift to move it around and put it on the tilt tray.

The driver wanted me to get some old carpet and soapy water etc so we could slide it off the tray into my garage! I said I'd have a go at releasing the handbrake and had it off in a minute - much to his amazement. I am suprised that people in a motor related industry have forgotton all about fly-off handbrakes.

The Peerless GT does not seem to be well known in Australia. A magazine article I have stated that four new cars were originally imported into Australia and another two have come in since. Mine would make number 7.


Regards

Bruce

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Joe

Date:

Good Luck with the project!  

Don't forget to post some pic's as you progress!


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Trev

Date:

Bruce,
I have just bought a Peerless  GT and would be very interested in talking to you about your car.
I am in Melbourne Australia.
My email address is trepen@optusnet.com.au

Regards,
Trev



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Nigel c

Date:

Wwooahh hold on a god dam minute, how many of you are there over there!confuse

Firstly Hi Bruce, I know your car well and it's a great basis to build on.smile
Second, who's Trev? And what you got matey? And from where??hmm



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Trev

Date:

Hi,
I just bought a red phase 1 car from Graeme Martin in Lakes Entrance.
He used it mainly as a race car.

I'll post a picture of the car but I don't know how?
Any tips?

Trev

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Gareth J

Date:

Glad it arrived safely!

I had trouble with the fly-off handbrake when I saw the car first no I'll carry the shame with me forever

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nigel c

Date:

hi Bruce and Trev,

do you know what happened to John Usher's dark red Phase1 that was for sale in the early 00's. it had a distinctive split front screen.

I've got an artical on it, looks prittybiggrin

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BruceT

Date:

Hi Nigel

No  - I think I have the same article that you're referring to but I haven't come across any reference to it over the past few years.

Hi Trev - did you get my email?

Regards

Bruce

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Trev

Date:

Sorry Bruce,
I didn't get your email.
Can you please resend it.
Regards,
Trev



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Anonymous

Date:

Hi

A minor victory! Managed to get the engine running today.

Had to free up the float needle valves that had stuck, plug the distributor vacuum line which didn't
seem to seal at the inlet manifold, and swap the rear carb choke lever from one side to the other
because it was fouling on the frame. Tied a bit of wire around the the two choke levers - and hey
presto - engine finally fired and ran reasonably well.




As you can see from the above pictures - the choke lever on the Left carb is now on the right hand
side of the carb. In the bottom picture, the choke arm had been hitting on the frame on the bottom
corner of the pedal box cover near the grey wire.

If I leave them in this position, I now have to modify the choke linkage - because both choke levers
will now pull toward each other.

Two requests:
1. Before I finalise this, I'm interested in how other cars are set up. Presumably other cars don't foul
the frame or body as mine does. I'd appreciate it if someone can post some pictures of their
carburettor setup so I can see where it's positioned relative to the frame and inner guard.

2. The next step is to finish fitting the doors. I've got a reasonable idea of how the hinge plate should
be bonded to the body, riveted/screwed to the frame - but again, if someone could post some pictures
of the hinge plate area/body of their doors that will help me to get it right on my car.

Regards

Bruce

 



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Tom Wardley

Date:

Hello there Bruce,

glad to hear you've got her running!  Not sure on the choke linkage issue - my car is missing some parts there.  I do seem to recall reading somewhere on this board that it is pretty tight and can foul - I'm sure someone with greater experience will be along shortly to help!

On the door issues, your car has Phase 2 hinge plates fitted I believe which are quite different to Phase 1 hinge plates.  I think you'd be better to get the correct plates cut for it to give yourself some hope of an easier life!  The thick steel Phase 1 plates tended to corrode badly - mine aren't through yet but are badly pitted.  Nigel had his replacements laser cut from aluminium if I recall.  I intend to replace mine with stainless steel.

My car hasn't seen the road for far too long (I bought it as a partially done "re-commissioning").  I have one hinge re-fitted and one out of the car at present.  If you'd like photos, I'll happily take some but am not familiar with ways and means of posting them here!  Drop me an email to my name (as posted above - no space though) @btinternet.com and I'll send you some across.

Tom

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BruceT

Date:

Thanks Tom - email sent.

Bruce

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GarethJ

Date:

Glad to hear it's running - I think those carbs have now been cleaned for longer than the engine has run!

The choke was always a snug fit, that's the reason the rear carb was connected and not both as per TR3s.  I think some localised bending of the choke arm might be your best bet?

The hinge plates are Phase 1 parts, I thought they should be fibreglassed in place as the original ones had welded tabs so once fitted, that was it.  It's an early car so they may have done it differently on later Phase 1s

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BruceT

Date:

Hi

After searching a bit more on the forum, I realised that only the choke lever on the forward carburetor is connected, the choke lever on the rear hits on the chassis frame/body.

Since I had already swapped the rear choke lever to the other side of the carburetor I spent some time thinking how I could get both choke levers to operate.

I devised a simple linkage system that now operates on both levers and is easily reversible.



The choke cable attaches to the front choke lever as normal. This pushes against a lever which pivots around the bolt of the cable clamp to then operate the rear choke lever.

It now seems to start a bit easier and runs smoother while warming up. 

Now on to repair the distributor vacuum advance unit and finish fitting those pesky door hinges.

Regards

Bruce 

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nigel c

Date:

nice one Bruce, good to see some inative developements are still going on with these cars. biggrin
I have run mine for over 40,000 miles to date and had no problems starting in cold mornings until I fitted (correctly) (dont ask) a hotter cam, now it seems to want more choke so maybe I'll try thissmile

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Jeffrey Leech

Date:

Hi Trev,
I live in Melbourne ,  I own  the original motor show demonistrator Peeless Phase 1
There were 4 cars imported 2 Green, 1 white, 1 Grey.
My car was Green  Now Yellow. I have owned the car since 1960.
Give me a Call   mobile number 0411 123 571
and I can proberly give you some info on your car.
Jeffrey Leech

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Bruce

Date:

Hi

Nigel

It looks as though John Usher's dark red Phase1 is up for sale again through Shannons Auctions in Asutralia.

See http://www.shannons.com.au/auctions/lot/TB2Q6Q6955A1MB1E/

 

Regards

 

Bruce



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nigel c

Date:

yea I have had a guy on about it. it does look as if it needs a little work to make good and I guess not far of the moneyconfuse

 

how's the resto going Bruce?



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Trev

Date:

The Aussie Peerless sold last night for  $26,500!!

The guide was $16,000 to $22,000.

 

http://www.shannons.com.au/auctions/lot/TB2Q6Q6955A1MB1E



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Anonymous

Date:

wow. so did that put you out of the runnin or do we have a new member....?smile



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