I've bought Gareth's Peerless #37 and after a slow boat trip it arrived in Australia and to my home last week.
Now comes the task of unpacking the bits and pieces and continuing the work that Gareth had undertaken.
The car arrived in one piece. The biggest issue seemed to be that once it was ready to pick up, no one could work out how to release the handbrake so they got a forklift to move it around and put it on the tilt tray.
The driver wanted me to get some old carpet and soapy water etc so we could slide it off the tray into my garage! I said I'd have a go at releasing the handbrake and had it off in a minute - much to his amazement. I am suprised that people in a motor related industry have forgotton all about fly-off handbrakes.
The Peerless GT does not seem to be well known in Australia. A magazine article I have stated that four new cars were originally imported into Australia and another two have come in since. Mine would make number 7.
Bruce, I have just bought a Peerless GT and would be very interested in talking to you about your car. I am in Melbourne Australia. My email address is trepen@optusnet.com.au
A minor victory! Managed to get the engine running today.
Had to free up the float needle valves that had stuck, plug the distributor vacuum line which didn't seem to seal at the inlet manifold, and swap the rear carb choke lever from one side to the other because it was fouling on the frame. Tied a bit of wire around the the two choke levers - and hey presto - engine finally fired and ran reasonably well.
As you can see from the above pictures - the choke lever on the Left carb is now on the right hand side of the carb. In the bottom picture, the choke arm had been hitting on the frame on the bottom corner of the pedal box cover near the grey wire.
If I leave them in this position, I now have to modify the choke linkage - because both choke levers will now pull toward each other.
Two requests: 1. Before I finalise this, I'm interested in how other cars are set up. Presumably other cars don't foul the frame or body as mine does. I'd appreciate it if someone can post some pictures of their carburettor setup so I can see where it's positioned relative to the frame and inner guard.
2. The next step is to finish fitting the doors. I've got a reasonable idea of how the hinge plate should be bonded to the body, riveted/screwed to the frame - but again, if someone could post some pictures of the hinge plate area/body of their doors that will help me to get it right on my car.
glad to hear you've got her running! Not sure on the choke linkage issue - my car is missing some parts there. I do seem to recall reading somewhere on this board that it is pretty tight and can foul - I'm sure someone with greater experience will be along shortly to help!
On the door issues, your car has Phase 2 hinge plates fitted I believe which are quite different to Phase 1 hinge plates. I think you'd be better to get the correct plates cut for it to give yourself some hope of an easier life! The thick steel Phase 1 plates tended to corrode badly - mine aren't through yet but are badly pitted. Nigel had his replacements laser cut from aluminium if I recall. I intend to replace mine with stainless steel.
My car hasn't seen the road for far too long (I bought it as a partially done "re-commissioning"). I have one hinge re-fitted and one out of the car at present. If you'd like photos, I'll happily take some but am not familiar with ways and means of posting them here! Drop me an email to my name (as posted above - no space though) @btinternet.com and I'll send you some across.
Glad to hear it's running - I think those carbs have now been cleaned for longer than the engine has run!
The choke was always a snug fit, that's the reason the rear carb was connected and not both as per TR3s. I think some localised bending of the choke arm might be your best bet?
The hinge plates are Phase 1 parts, I thought they should be fibreglassed in place as the original ones had welded tabs so once fitted, that was it. It's an early car so they may have done it differently on later Phase 1s
After searching a bit more on the forum, I realised that only the choke lever on the forward carburetor is connected, the choke lever on the rear hits on the chassis frame/body.
Since I had already swapped the rear choke lever to the other side of the carburetor I spent some time thinking how I could get both choke levers to operate.
I devised a simple linkage system that now operates on both levers and is easily reversible.
The choke cable attaches to the front choke lever as normal. This pushes against a lever which pivots around the bolt of the cable clamp to then operate the rear choke lever.
It now seems to start a bit easier and runs smoother while warming up.
Now on to repair the distributor vacuum advance unit and finish fitting those pesky door hinges.
nice one Bruce, good to see some inative developements are still going on with these cars. I have run mine for over 40,000 miles to date and had no problems starting in cold mornings until I fitted (correctly) (dont ask) a hotter cam, now it seems to want more choke so maybe I'll try this
Hi Trev, I live in Melbourne , I own the original motor show demonistrator Peeless Phase 1 There were 4 cars imported 2 Green, 1 white, 1 Grey. My car was Green Now Yellow. I have owned the car since 1960. Give me a Call mobile number 0411 123 571 and I can proberly give you some info on your car. Jeffrey Leech