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Post Info TOPIC: Wiring diagram
Atle Granby

Date:
Wiring diagram


Hi all.
I need a wiring diagram for my Peerless in high resolution, so I can make a big (A3)†print. If you got one, please send to me at atle_granby@hotmail.com

Anybody tryed to convert from positive ground over to negative ground on the eletric?? I will try this on my car but I am unsure if there going to be anny big problem. I did test the starter, and that was ok. I am also going to convert to alternator.

If you see anny problem dooing this, please notefy me.

Best regards
Atle Granby

Ps.
I am stripping the paint at the moment......



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Gareth J

Date:

I've just e-mailed you an original wiring diagram.† My car is negative earth, if you have an alternator from a negative earth car you need to swap the car to negative earth.

Gareth

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Flash Frank

Date:

Atle:

The polarity changeover for an Alternator is easy-peasy, the alternator output can go directly to the solenoid.

You will need to take the Ammeter out of circuit, because it can't handle the alternator charge current.†† Don't leave it in, showing a discharge all the time, because the maximum current with all the lights on is more than the wiring can handle, and you'll burn out the harness.† I took all the lights feed direct from the fusebox, and left the alternator showing the fuel pumps current, so that you can see if they are working if you can't hear the ticking above the exhaust noise.

Good Luck!

FF

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Paul M

Date:

Hey Atle
Neg earth is no prob. just swop the battery round, when you fit the alternator.. other stuff , feed to alt charge lamp is thru red dash lamp from switched side of ign.
regards ammeter, perhaps find a 35 or 50 amp ammeter and put the old front on it.
run main alt power cable into ammeter opposite side to battery connection, or wherever connects to it.
If you're fitting a battery isolater switch, ensure it doesn't get switched off when the engine is running, as a running alternator with no battery will immediately cook itself.
it's worth the 10mm or half inch belt conversion too...

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just been tryin to sort out my fuel gauge readings on the old bus (no, not the present Mrs Cluley, I know when she's full!) and have got nowhere.

re-checked the loom/wiring as per wiring diagram...new gauge....new sender ( I found TR5-6 fitted?)...12v reading on the live side of the gauge...checked out switch, seems to be workin......

set up a rig on the bench: 12v battery to gauge to sender to battery...no reading on the gauge when sender raised etc...am I missin something here?cry



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Frank From Felixstowe

Date:

Yes.

The body of the fuel gauge needs to be earthed.† It's not shown on the wiring diagram.

The original Jaeger instrument relies on a differential magnetic field,† which is why it doesn't have a regulator.

F



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Date:

Thanks Frank that did the trick! But now I have one tank reading empty when empty and one reading full.....when empty! The wrong one is the new sender unit I fitted, do you think its because I have a TR5-6 sender unit or can just swop the wires over?

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Frank from Felixstowe

Date:

I think it's the sender.

Swapping the wires won't work, you'll need to bodge it so that the arm pivots the other way

(like mount the pivot arm on the other side, to get clockwise instead of anticlock)

I have a pair of (new unused) senders for a very reasonable fee if you are stuck
cos†I've fitted a single boot tank now.

F



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OK FF I might be interested, I did wonder whether it was because the new one was TR5 but then I'm runnin neg earth as well? Still it is a great improvement from what I've had before and I can always show the present Mrs Cluley a full tank as she's had enough of me switching from tank to tank to get home Let me know what you want for them

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Frank from Felixstowe

Date:

Nigel:

When I had the unit in my hand last night, it occurred to me.....

You have to fave the units in opposite directions so that the shaft turns the same way as the tank fills.

I have £1 that says you have both arms facing the same way.† If you face one forward, and one back.........

I still have 2 new senders, I'll dig the camera out.

F



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I've tried my arms goin different ways and it hurts! Surly when the float is up its full, when down its empty.....period

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I just bought a 1959 Peerless and would love a copy of the wiring diagram.† Could you send me one as well?

Thanks.

Steve



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And I could use a copy as well?

John B.



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Perhaps whoever has a copy could attach it in this thread
Dave

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Dave GT2†



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Date:

Hi I have copy on pdf. The Site seems not to allow upload of pdf. so please leave email address and i will send wink



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Anonymous

Date:

steve@collinsrafik.com

Thanks.



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Hi Steve,

whatcha bought then? and where??



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steve

Date:
RE: Wiring diagram - What I bought


GT2 #216

Sitting outside in the high Nevada desert for the last ten years.† Purchased a week ago in Reno, Nevada.††† Picture is on bringatrailer.com from a few weeks ago.† It is almost all there except thos pesky headlight rings.††† Which brings up a question.†††

There are little round flapped chrome escrucheons on the hood for latches, but just airspace underneath.† The implication would be that they cover budget latches shown here, http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials6.22/19.php, as way to lock down hood?† But that would mean that the latches would have to have bolts coming through hood.† How did they come from factory?



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Posts: 26
Date:
Wiring diagram


Steve,

yes you are right about the latches that your car should have. I'm not sure how they were attached originally as (unfortunately) I didn't strip out my car. Certainly they weren't bolted through the bonnet! I would imagine that there were steel plates with threaded studs bonded into the fibreglass of the bonnet. There was a thread on the forum from the current owner of my father's car asking (as one of the latches had come adrift) how to reattach the latch. I've searched and searched through the forum for it but I think that it must have disappeared into the ether when Dave rejigged the forum. I seem to remember there being some dispute about whether "glueing" it back with sikaflex would suffice and Frank Wright was doubtful due to the huge pressure generated under the bonnet at speed.

I only recently saw the original holder for the bonnet "key" on a car that was advertised recently...another nice touch:

6151569131_b3e0082353_b.jpg

Hope that's of interest and congratulations on your new acquisition!

Tom

PS† As there seem to be several requests for wiring diagrams, I have scanned and attached a copy of the wiring diagram that was in the back of the reprinted Peerless "Instruction Book".† I hope it may be of use to those who have requested it.† I have acknowledged its origin on the scan and have also added a comment from a post by Frank Wright that I believe relates to this version.



-- Edited by TomW on Friday 23rd of November 2012 02:35:03 PM

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