As I wait for wiring to turn up for my Phase 1 Peerless, I can't help noticing that the main issue with the body is that neither door is fitted. I've got a good eye for little details....
The hinges are welded to 2 large steel plates (both off the car), 1 fits on the door and the other fits on the A post of the car - that much I can guess! Now for the bits I can't guess:
At least one of the plates needs to be replaced because it's rusty, but how are they fixed to the door and car? The plates don't have any holes in them so can they just be bonded to the fibreglass? Would I be better off drilling some holes to increase the bond area?
Does the plate that forms the A post get welded to the bulkhead or should it just be attached to the fibreglass? How do I find out it's position inside the front inner wing?
Is there any adjustment in the hinge to make a good door gap?
As I wait for wiring to turn up for my Phase 1 Peerless, I can't help noticing that the main issue with the body is that neither door is fitted. I've got a good eye for little details....good, you'll need it
The hinges are welded to 2 large steel plates (both off the car), 1 fits on the door and the other fits on the A post of the car - that much I can guess! Now for the bits I can't guess: those would be the bits from the grill to the boot handle then?
At least one of the plates needs to be replaced because it's rusty, but how are they fixed to the door and car? The plates don't have any holes in them so can they just be bonded to the fibreglass? Would I be better off drilling some holes to increase the bond area? they should have "tags" with holes in them welded to the inner wind face. these are bonded to the wind.
Does the plate that forms the A post get welded to the bulkhead or should it just be attached to the fibreglass? How do I find out it's position inside the front inner wing? most plates that I have seen are riveted on. I used large good quality self tappers so they can always be removed. "if" you have the original door plates to the original body/chassis then the holes "should" line up. if not then it's down to trial and error. I had a new chassis and new door hinge plates and so spent days lining them up....oh and the doors dont fit the door apature anyway i cut the skins off, cut the frames, fitted them and bonded the skins back on..yea lifes work my friend Is there any adjustment in the hinge to make a good door gap? NO well yes...your right the best way is to drill holes in the door plate (and I bonded a new stainless steel plate inside the door as well) then you can pack out the plate from inside the car with the door shut and fine tune when you open it...if you can open it
Look again at the hole that the door goes in, by sighting down the sides of the car. It's possible to mount the rear of the body up to an inch "offset" side to side from the front. If the holes aren't true to start with, then the door fit will never be right.
It gets worse...
Sometimes this is due to the chassis being "out of true", because the floor structure is not diagopnally braced. My warwick was like this, it had a bang and an amateur repair.
The hinges are welded to 2 large steel plates (both off the car), 1 fits on the door and the other fits on the A post of the car - that much I can guess! Now for the bits I can't guess: those would be the bits from the grill to the boot handle then?
Grille to the rear bumpers I think you'll find
Anonymous wrote:
At least one of the plates needs to be replaced because it's rusty, but how are they fixed to the door and car? The plates don't have any holes in them so can they just be bonded to the fibreglass? Would I be better off drilling some holes to increase the bond area? they should have "tags" with holes in them welded to the inner wind face. these are bonded to the wind.
Does the plate that forms the A post get welded to the bulkhead or should it just be attached to the fibreglass? How do I find out it's position inside the front inner wing? most plates that I have seen are riveted on. I used large good quality self tappers so they can always be removed.
I've had another look and there are tags with holes on the bits that look like a boat anchor. I need to duplicate them!
Anonymous wrote:
"if" you have the original door plates to the original body/chassis then the holes "should" line up. if not then it's down to trial and error. I had a new chassis and new door hinge plates and so spent days lining them up....oh and the doors dont fit the door apature anyway i cut the skins off, cut the frames, fitted them and bonded the skins back on..yea lifes work my friend
O.......kay. If working at the Peerless & Warwick message board gives up, there's a job at the Samaritans for you
Anonymous wrote:
Is there any adjustment in the hinge to make a good door gap? NO well yes...your right the best way is to drill holes in the door plate (and I bonded a new stainless steel plate inside the door as well) then you can pack out the plate from inside the car with the door shut and fine tune when you open it...if you can open it
Good plan, thank you for all that!
Flash Frank wrote:Before you get too deep...
Look again at the hole that the door goes in, by sighting down the sides of the car. It's possible to mount the rear of the body up to an inch "offset" side to side from the front. If the holes aren't true to start with, then the door fit will never be right.
It gets worse...
Sometimes this is due to the chassis being "out of true", because the floor structure is not diagopnally braced. My warwick was like this, it had a bang and an amateur repair.
Good luck!
FF
Got the e-mail, cheers for that! It gets worse doesn't it?
I made a start on the wiring today, got the wires from the front lamps done and the indicators. Now got to connect it at the other end, where do I go digging for the indicator wiring? How do I get the plastic cover off that goes around the horn button?
FIRST: Disconnect the battery. The horn has a 35A Fuse.
The horn/indicator switch is held in place by three allen key 2BA grubscrews in the boss behind the steering wheel. These are NLA so do not loose them!
If the indicator switch is rotating free from the steering wheel Then you will get the switch with about three inches of tube, in your lap on the end of the cable.
OR If the indicator switch rotates with the wheel You need to unsolder the bullets on the cable and undo the gland nut where the wires exit the steering box and withdraw the whole three feet of tube up the column.
New cable for the horn/indicators is available from Autosparks.
One the switch is in your lap, it dismantles from the back.