Looks like you are already on the right path and secured a set of chassis plans. I recall from an earlier email that you were looking for the plans. I would also like to obtain a copy. Please do share the source.
The condition of your firewall looks alot like what I am expecting when I remove my body. My thought was to simply bend up a few panels and tack them to part of a new frame. How are you planning to complete that part of the job?
Hello guys, I intend to fit an aluminium firewall over the existing GRP section behind the heater box. Will update when I've tackled it. My dash section is currently out of the car (it came away very easily).
I'm also looking at fireproofing the engine bay using appropriate coatings and fire retardent sound deadening. Anything that can delay fire taking hold of the GRP has to be worth it. A plumbed in extinguisher system is a definite, but that's only effective for seconds in reality, unless a large extinguisher is fitted.
I tried this, with the shell upside down, so that I could see what I was doing. The curve of the shell, against the flat door hinge plates makes it a real faff. In the end, and after about a tube and a half of seam sealer it was not very effective, I still get smoke and smells in the car (part of the Peerless experience!)
The other thing that happens is that all these bits of shell and chassis move about quite a lot, and even where you get a good seal it will fail quite quickly.
I have since realised that a bit of airflow from the bonnet over the side tanks helps to dispel the smell of fuel if you've topped the tanks, and it must help to keep them dry and condensation free.
Finally, don't expect an extinguisher to save a GRP car. The most that you can hope for is that it will give you time to get out.
Malvern unlikely as we're supposed to be in Cornwall on summer hols.
You are absolutely correct an extinguisher in a GRP car buys you time to get yourself and your passengers out. With my use of Sikaflex bonding sealant I'm hoping (big H) to eliminate as much vibration induced stress cracking and unwanted smells/noise as possible. Hey, I might even fit a radio with speakers! All the best. Gary
Hi Atle, great progress! I have phoned, emailed and text the guy that may have dimensions...and he has'nt come back to me, do I take it that you now have what you want and I came drop this thread? looking at your pictures are you replaceing the complete chassis? If not then I must raise concerns for the front tubes that come from the front suspension at the bottom towards the door posts. in picture 01042009625 they look as if they are straight...they should slope downwards towards the door posts. this gives the front suspension "caster angle". Ask Flash Frank, he nearly made the same mistake. regards nigel
Yes, it took me a while to work out what was going on.
My chassis was very corroded, it had spent twenty years in a front garden overlooking the north sea. Front and back tubes and most of the floor was non-existent, and I had assumed that the angles that I was seeing indicated imminent collapse from the weight of the engine.
After lots of help from the registry (and looking under Nigels car on the TR stand at the NEC) I came to realise that the centre section of the chassis is flat, but the front section slopes up to the front cross tube which is 4 inches higher, and the back section rises 2 inches to the back cross tube.
Apart from providing the castor angle for the steering (that's the self-centring action) as soon as I put the body back on, lots of the "stress cracks" in the body magically closed up.
Getting this right on a rebuild is easy, use a flat floor, and a building timber as a spacer, which is probably how the factory did it. I can also advise that keeping the assembly "square" when you weld it together is the difficult bit, it's all about penetration and shrinkage (in the welds Nigel!)
I have phoned, emailed and text the guy that may have dimensions...and he has'nt come back to me, do I take it that you now have what you want and I came drop this thread?
I got three drawings from Erik de Vries in Holland, and I am good to go on the chassis
looking at your pictures are you replaceing the complete chassis?
No, I am going to fix my own
If not then I must raise concerns for the front tubes that come from the front suspension at the bottom towards the door posts. in picture 01042009625 they look as if they are straight...
This was my biggtest problem on my car. The chassis was wrong build. But as I got the needed drawings, and a good friend who is a engeneer and a welder, I am going to fix the faults. It is not only in the front, you know, they have made the same fault at the rear-end also..... But, this is a job to do, as for all the others, as loong as I know what to do.
Today I am boing to paint the first parts on my car.
That's it! The Arctic Circle, of course. Land of the midnight sun. 24 hours of daylight. That's where I need to move to in order to finish (no pun intended) my Peerless.