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Post Info TOPIC: J-Type OD


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Posts: 116
Date:
J-Type OD


Folks....

Has anybody fitted a 4-synchro box with J-type O/D to a P/W?

After an afternoon struggling, the tail of the box seems to be too high
to get the box to mate cleanly with the block, and it looks like the gearbox
mount plate on the chassis fouling the O/D is the problem area.
The TR3 "conversion plate" kit is useless in this application.

I'll sort it over the weekend, but if anybody else has been there before me
then sage advice would be appreciated.

Frank



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Posts: 116
Date:

Well, the saga goes like this...

First real (In anger) running of the Warwick shows up that the gearbox needs work.
Runs fine in 1 or 2, but 3 and 4, there's a nasty crunch from the layshaft on the overrun.

Replacement, TR Shop, 2000 (no exchange) or later 4-synchro with J-type 1600 + Conversion fitting kit 107.

Solution:

Dave the gearbox man, down at Ruislip, 1200 exchange my 3-synchro +A-type O/D for 4-synchro + J-type.

Fitting problems. The engine to gearbox fit, no problems. Remember that the flange is thicker so you'll
need longer UNC bolts and studs. Otherwise, sweet as.

The "conversion kit" is pointless in this application, it replaces a TR3 plate which is bolted to the chassis
cruxiform chassis members, and carries the gearbox mount rubber. In a P/W this plate is a fixed part of the chassis.

In theory this could remain, but......

1. The gearbox tail would need to be "up" to get clearance above the mount for the O/D servo.
2, You could pick up the existing mount with an L-shaped bracket, but it would be much to high, and foul the tunnel.3. The killer. You can't change the box with the engine in situ with the existing mount plate in place.
You could probably manage it if you installed the box first, but that's not the point.

OK, so now it gets gritty.

Cut off the gearbox mount plate. A new one will be required, about 1/2" lower, and further back, with a
cut-out for the speedo drive cable.

The propshaft is now 1/2" too long. You can bodge for around 1/4" misalignment by slotting the engine mount
holes on the engine front plate, but the engine flywheel will eventually touch the steering arm on full lock

More later.

F



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Posts: 366
Date:

wow and ouch springs to mind!

Let me get this first bit straight.........1200 for a A to J exchange? I think he's having a laugh....

I'll talk to Pete tomorrow and see what he charges for rebuild of your A box and overdrive.

Over the years I have "picked up stuff" and are now running a 4 synchro box and A type overdrive. I wanted synchro on first for that really tight hairpin at Prescott...yea did once after fitting it and

don't think I've ever used it again on the road!

My advise would be "stay with the A" my friend and rebuild.



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Posts: 188
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Watching with interest as this part of my rebuild is looming on the horizon.

No idea as to the state of my box and o/d as it hasn't been looked at since I took it out of the car. It would be nice to see what options might be available if it turns out to be in need of a rebuild/replacement.

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