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Post Info TOPIC: Peerless #37


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Peerless #37


Thanks to Gary I now have a set of Peerless badges for my car.

I bought my car (#37) around May 2010. After almost 6 years I thought I should give an update.

This is when I first got the car.

 

And this is it now!

 

 
Ok, so I have hardly done anything to it;  apart from get it off the truck.

However - the eagle-eyed among you will notice I have actually replaced the clear light indicator lenses at front with amber ones.

And it is now sporting a red door.

The reason I haven't done anything is because I have been restoring another car.

 

Hang on,  I'll remove the cover

  

 

That's better,  this one is pretty much finished. It's a Daimler SP250. The Peerless door was used to experiment with some different sanding/buffing options,  which is why it is now red.

 

But it's now time to turn my attention to the Peerless and to ask endless questions on the forum.

The first main task is still; fit the doors (you can see my original post in the topic Peerless Down Under).

 

I have already cut new hinge plates and am going to cut new door mounting plates.

I plan to bond 6 L-shaped brackets with captive nut to the inside of both front guards where the door mounting plate would fit.

This will allow me to bolt the mounting plate to the chassis and the body.

However if there is a different/better way of doing this, please let me know.

 

Regards

Bruce



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Bruce


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Hi Bruce,

Great to see you have started again with the car although I fully understand you had better things to be getting on with! always like the SP250 and I keep seeing one around

in gun metal grey and acrylic pods over the headlamps and no bumpers....mmmmmmm I could be swayed you know....sayin that I just bought another car.............................

 

Anyhoo, keep it up and keep posting

 

 



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Quick question

How do you remove the dashboard - I can`t see any mounting bolts but something is holding it in.
I want to remove it to be able to fit the new door hinge mounting plates.

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Bruce


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whoa there tiger, be careful! You will have to find a way to support the"top deck" as its only the top of the dash that keeps this from sagging.

The main fixings (well on mine anyway) are the two wiper arm mounts. These are also very important when you are trying to line the body up on the chassis etc as they

are key to getting that area inline.

make sure you've removed all the old carpet/felt/sound proofing/fur/leopard skin print etc from the glove box etc just in case there's a pop rivet or bolt in there and corresponding

ones behind the clocks. Saying that, all the cars Ive worked on were just held together by the wiper mounts. However, I did bolt mine back in as these made good earthing points as well!

 

Another flag up here IF it helps. Not sure what weather you encounter over there but if you need to demist your screen I strongly advise that you improve the air feed to the passengers side.

This is supposedly a GRP pocket built into the top of the dash that transfers hot air .......its crap! Phase 2 was amended and they did a far better job. And lets face it, if your passengers going

to scream they might as well see what their potentially screaming about omfg.gif

If you can widen/deepen this all to the good. I wish I had. make sure you can still clear all the feeds coming in from the engine bay etc but go for it...and

don't get me started on the position/spacing of the wiper mounts anyway.....no.



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Hi

 

Happy New Year to all from Down Under.

So this year I really am starting the restoration.

I took some quick measurements of the car, and it's only out by about 5 mm here and there.

The body sits about 5mm further to the left, than than the right, and the clearance between the front of the front wheel arch and wheel is a few mm greater on the right than the left.

I don't want to take the body of the chassis so will live with these little differences.

 

I was able to remove the dash, so I can fit the door hinge mounting plates.

 

It seems that once the hinges are mounted to the plate, and the mounting plates are bolted and bonded in place, then there's no way for them to come out again.  So I need to get them positioned properly to start with.

 

Which leads to some questions:

1. What do I do with the void behind the mounting hinge plates?  anything or nothing?

2. From inside the engine bay, there is a gap between the chassis frame, nearest firewall, and outer fender/front guard panel. Should this be filled, or is there always a gap? or is this where I access the door hinge if I needed to adjust it or remove it?

3. Regarding the dash, what have people done to allow ventilation for driver and passenger. Has anyone included air vents in the dash, or have you added separate air vents (if so, where), or do you all just swelter in the heat?

 

Thanks

Bruce

 



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Bruce


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Many childhood stories of sweltering in the heat whilst queuing to get.into shows or running the heater to cool the engine...believe electric fans were added with an extra shroud!? No extra vents added to my knowledge though.

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ha haa yes Allison I remember your dad sitting on the side of the road eating his picnic as his engine had seized in the traffic waiting to get into the show at Bromley!

Bruce, don't worry about the discrepancies in minor measurements on these cars. The master for mold was hand built as were the molds themselves and  then they were stood around on uneven floors no doubt so nothing

and I mean nothing is quite straight and true. if you want to get twisted about sizes go measure the length of the rear sections of the front wings and the total length of the doors....OH and whilst I'm on this subject, try putting your hands flat, one either side of the bonnet aperture (thumbs touching the aperture) at the very front....... fell the curvature of the wing going up towards the headlamps.....not very even is it?

I can hear your eyebrows rising from here!

Don't worry, when will you ever see both side of the car at the same time..........if you do, boy you is in trouble!

 

questions:

 

1. What do I do with the void behind the mounting hinge plates?  anything or nothing?

Some people fit servo units in there. I've dropped a windscreen washer/water bag from an MGB down the one side and also built (into the top of that area) a header tank and puke bottle for the water system.

2. From inside the engine bay, there is a gap between the chassis frame, nearest firewall, and outer fender/front guard panel. Should this be filled, or is there always a gap? or is this where I access the door hinge if I needed to adjust it or remove it?

Really need a photo of this and cant get my head around where you are.....adjusting the door hinge....have you got any more funnies like that you can share..........biggrin

3. Regarding the dash, what have people done to allow ventilation for driver and passenger. Has anyone included air vents in the dash, or have you added separate air vents (if so, where), or do you all just swelter in the heat?

I know that FJ has fitted tubes from below the front side/indicator lights through to the bottom of the foot wells to allow fresh air into his feet....tis nice I must say. Not seen any other mods. I have fitted a Y gate on the output of the heater box so I can dump all

interior heater air straight out under the car instead of into the cabin when in traffic. My new idea is to look into a better two way interior heater fan so, when in traffic I can suck air from the heater box out the front of the car wink

 



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Thanks Nigel

 

I have been in touch with Dean to see what he has done for extra ventilation.

 

So, some other questions:

I need to get a new wiring loom.

Are they still available from Autosparks?

I remember there was some earlier confusion about whether a Peerless wiring loom was really for a Peerless or a Warwick.

My other (& cheaper) option is to get a universal wiring loom.

 

The other question is, the previous owner removed the petrol tanks form the sills and put one in the boot, so what have people done with the empty sills in similar circumstances?

 

Regards



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Bruce


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Bruce. For your information, I got a Peerless loom from Autosparks a couple of years ago now. Sadly, it's not fitted yet but on the plus side, I can advise that I've been through it fairly thoroughly and compared it to the original wiring diagram and it appears to be in order. I've also tried it against the bare chassis and there are no problems regarding the lengths of the wiring. It seems to run front to back with no obvious problems.

I had Autosparks add wiring for hazards and front and rear heated screen along with electric fan. The only thing I think I need to add are relays and a fuse box.

Can't remember the cost but with my lack of electrical skills, it was well worth it.


Mike R-F



-- Edited by mikerf on Thursday 4th of January 2018 07:19:15 PM

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