The Peerless & Warwick Discussion Forum

oooh yes.

I have seen a complecated araingment that pulls both inwards but personely I run on one choke (as we call it over here) for staring. soon as she's fired, she's fine.

oh and dont forget we have the peddle box/master cylinders and steering colume on our side as well!

OK, 145 is the oddball again.  I just checked and both choke arms are straight.  This is a RHD car.  Also, there is nothing connected to either carb choke lever!  I don't know what should be there, but whatever it was isn't anymore.

John

Dave,

I looked again, just to be sure, and both arms are full length.  The rear one is resting on the panel under it!  I think that no 145 had a rather bad thump on the front left corner and the whole front of the body is tweaked.  I'm going for the whole body and chassis replacement as there appears to be little choice.

John

DaveC wrote:

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John - before committing to the whole body and chassis replacement, check out what Dean is doing with #213. It's amazing, and is either a sign of genius or madness. Or both.

www.vintagemotoring.net/forum/viewtopic.php

dave

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 Dave,

I'd vote for genius, a sort of mad genius.  If your aim was to have me change my mind and restore the original body and chassis you missed the mark.  (To badly mix a metaphor.)  While I appreciate Dean's wonderful skill at reviving the dead, it is simply not cost effective for me as I don't have the space, equipment or skill to work his kind of miracle.  Acquiring those things for a one shot project would cost much more than purchasing the new body and chassis and paying to have the rest of the work done.  In any case I would have to farm out the drivetrain and interior work.  Since that leaves the body and chassis work, which requires the  space, etc, it just makes sense to have one shop do the whole job.  I will do some small part of the project at home.  I am a Clockmaker, and restore 18th and 19th century clocks.  I will restore any part that can be separated from the car without interfering with the work flow.  

As much as I agree with the philosophy of keeping as much of the original car as possible, there are practical limits when dealing with functioning machines.  Thirty years ago I wrote an internship report on this very subject for Mystic Seaport's Dupont Preservation Shipyard.  It has been the basis for their ship preservation program ever since.

Cheers,

John

DaveC wrote:

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John - before committing to the whole body and chassis replacement, check out what Dean is doing with #213. It's amazing, and is either a sign of genius or madness. Or both.

www.vintagemotoring.net/forum/viewtopic.php

dave

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Dave,

As the patient, I don't think I am qualified to self diagnose, but I will offer that there is no explanation that I could provide to you or my wife that could possibly convince a rational jury of anything other than complete madness.  Most recently confirmed by the fact that I tore into the Peerless body after buying a perfectly functional Warwick. 

Now, just to confirm my insanity, I am going back to the barn and try to figure our how to hang the doors.

Dean

PS: I used a pair of horizontal SU choke levers and a bracket between the carbs to carry the cable. This allows both chokes to be activated in unison.  I can shoot a photo if there is interest. It is a bolt on modification using available SU parts that can be easily reversed should you enter a event where the judges are scoring based on the authenticity of crooked brazed lever arms.

DaveC wrote:

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John - before committing to the whole body and chassis replacement, check out what Dean is doing with #213. It's amazing, and is either a sign of genius or madness. Or both.

www.vintagemotoring.net/forum/viewtopic.php

dave

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 Excellent blog. Great work Dean and thanks DaveC for the link.

Frieman wrote:

 Dean,

It is indeed a mad, mad, mad world...

Please post pictures of your choke arrangement.  I live in a cooler place and need fully functioning chokes.  We had a frost warning here last night.  Please post the SU part numbers as well.

You have to admire madness in the cause of art,

John

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 John,

Hopefully the picture will help.   Searching through the SU Burlen site you can find all sorts of brackets and linkage components for our cars.  I used AUC 5092 and AUC 4816 as the choke levers.  One has a bend and the other is mostly straight. This is necessary as they are joined by WZX 996 to a horizontal bar that it attached to the back of the air cleaner or air stack bolts.  Seems to work well, but it is a stiff pull. Might be to the newness of the cork gaskets in the jet holder.  You will need to outfit the rear carb with the standoff lever and spring if that has gone missing.

I suspect that the boys at Peerless/Warwick just took the TR3 motor as it was delivered and disconnected the rear choke, not bothering to find a different lever that would work nor wanting to take on the extra job to fabricate a bracket to hold the cable. I'm sure it was discussed...

What is really interesting is they used what would have been the twin choke bar (the threaded rod and clevis pin) from the TR3 motor - Moss part 371-420 as the the heater flap rod, so you know they received the twin choke setup.   Those cleaver Brits.  Nothing goes to waste.

Dean