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Back to Peerless-GT -> The Peerless & Warwick Register Forum Message Board -> Technical Help, What's It Off and Parts -> Rear Suspension
Post Info TOPIC: Rear Suspension
Art


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Rear Suspension
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My shock bracket is broken on the LH side.  After looking at it and contemplating going with a Watts linkage and a coil over set up I have come to the conclusion that if I retain just the main leaf on the leaf springs and the one next to it the axle should be adequatly located side to side with some spring also.  At that point a Coil Over shock could be used in a vertical location to augment the leaf spring and to serve as the shock wihtout the lever unit.

Has anyone ever done this?  Would not impnge in the trunk area like a Watts Linkage.

ART  #168no



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richtr


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When I redid my Warwick GT frame, I installed tube shocks. It worked well and when the leaf springs got weak,

I changed them to adjustable coil over shocks. Was able to adjust the height of the rear and for the first time

I got both sides the same. I can get out in to the garage and take some pictures if anyone is interested.

 

Dean Tetterton

Warwick #23



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Art


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Yes pictures would be great. Am wondering about travel on the rear axle tube. Seems like the shock units I am finding are 14" extended and 10" compressed, is that about right? Thanks
ART
GT168

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richtr


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Art

       I will get some pictures after work tomorrow. Will see if I can find the model of shocks and

what the closed and extended measurements are. I did this about three years ago. 

Dean



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richtr


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Art

If you want some more pictures, send me your address and I will send them direct.

Dean      tr3a58@verizon.net

 



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nigel c


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so when were you goin to tell all about the disc conversion as well!

 

come on spill the beans............biggrin

 

I fitted these from the start as I cant stand those bloody oil filled(which there not as it usually leaks out) leaver arm thangs.

dont remember the travel lengths tho, sorry.



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richtr


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The disc brakes are a result of the stub axle breaking in a race and the wheel coming off and jaming up in the wheel well. Broke a lot of the fiberglass as well as the glass rear window. Decided I would not race any more with the tapered axles. Made a new De Dion axle tube and used hubs and axles from a 280XZ Nisson. They had disc on the rear so left those brackets on. No sense changing back to drums. 

Deanbrokeaxle 001.jpg



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nigel c


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yea a lot of guys in the states seem to use Nissan 200 range stubs for all sorts of conversions (and the right PCD) must have an abundance of them over there, we haven't!

although ford sierra/granada was a very popular donor for the kit car guys.smile

i was looking at building a new tube with stag hubs (as they are obtainable/right PCD/and detachable) and possibly a new cosworth LSD diff.sprint.gif

any thoughts anyone....yea I know heathen, should lead by example, etc etc but I use it all year....have already had major fail were one wheel lock up at 80mph after overtaking a (very surprised) 38 ton lorry!

diff wines like a 8u66er and whey to much to rebuild....again!furious



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richtr


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I don't like any of the hubs with the tapered axles. Seen them break on TR4, TR6, and my Warwick. Now all of these were on race cars so under max pressure. They all break in the taper where the key is staked. 

Here is a shot of the new and old De Dion tube. You can see the brackets for the disc brakes. 

Dean



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Art


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Looking at the break in the stub axle it appears to me to possibly be the result of insufficient end float in the axle housing at the end of the di dion tube? The more heavily loaded end is the hub end. As this unit gets hot the clearance goes away esp if the races and housing gets hotter than the axle itself. Jags with the alumium carriers call for .006" end float, am not sure what the spec is for the Peerless units, but I would hazzard a guess that .003-4" would be adequate as they are steel. Seems to me that the brunt of the chassis load would be taken between the outer bearing and the wheel flange itself. The other tapered end of that shaft does handle the driving load, but I would not think that the Triumph engine would put that under to much duress.
If in fact it is a problem area we could have some made from stouter stuff! There have been some improvements in metalurgy in the last 60 years!
Regards
ARTconfuse



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richtr


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Ay most race tracks in the US, you make more right turns then left. With the sticky tires we run, this loads up the left rear wheel. This is the one that broke on mine and 3 others TR's that I know of. I feel the taper part of the axle that the outer hub is bolted to, flexes. This movement leads to the axle getting a crack first and then failer. The TR4 that I know had the special steel axles from Cambridge and were crack checked at the end of each season. They still failed.

The 280ZX hubs have the outer flange made to the axle and the inner flange is bolted to the axle with splines and not tapered. The outer bearing is closer to the flange and supports it. The TR flange is outside of the bearing and all the taper is outside the bearing. Subject to much more pressure. 

Of course if we ran Dunlap tires and drifted there would be less breakage. Don't know if they break on Peerless street cars. 

Just my thoughts

Dean



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Art


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My mistake, upon second glance the flange on the axle is the inner flange not the outer flange. Some of the fancy metals available now here in the US should solve that problem. Summer's Brothers products etc. They have made axles for me in the past.

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Frieman


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A simple, hopefully, question:  How many leaves should the rear suspension have?  No 145 seems to have acquired a "helper" leaf.  See attached photos.

The hole in the inner fender is from the tire rubbing on it.  The other side is warn as well, but not as bad.  These springs look much flatter than the ones in the other photos on this page.  Are there any replacements for these?

John



-- Edited by Frieman on Sunday 1st of September 2013 04:11:15 PM

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DaveC


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Here's a pic of mine from when I was replacing all the brakes.   Seems to have 7 in total.  

dave



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Dave GT2 
nigel c


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Hi John,

I'm lovin what a previous owner has done to your springs!

you see, Peerless in the their infant wisdom decided that if your going to put four people into the car you need some help on the suspension. so instead of sorting out better springs that could cope, they fitted a flat

steel plate. so when the spring inverts (because of aunt fanny, her sister Freda and their luggage ) the steel plate stops it from going any further.smile

your guy realised that he could gain a few extra thou by clamping the plate to the springs in a last ditch attempt to raise it tail!clap.gif

 

when I finally got mine off the wreck that was BP I took them to a well known spring maker/repairer in Birmingham. his words to me were (brace yourselves) "if you want me to do them, you can f**k off somewhere else".

so after calming him down he said " you should never do that to a leaf spring, criminal,  bring me new ones and I will add a leaf, reset the complete spring and in six months you will have the ride height you want.

 

 

and you know what......he was right.

so I think, from memory, I used up rated TR4 springs, extra leaf, re-tempered with more curve, settled down to just about right. in fact these have done over 50,000 miles now and perform very well, even four up.....but I still keep

the present Mrs Cluley in the front................disbelief



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Frieman


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Thanks Dave and Nigel,

It's nice to know that I have an original Peerless cluge rather that a later owner cluge.  Has anyone ever considered doing away with the "cart springs" and going to double trailing arms and a Watts linkage ala Lister-Jaguar?  Modern adjustable coil over shocks would make a very neat arrangement.

Cheers,

John



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mikerf


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Is this the time to mention that I have a pair of unused, original Peerless leaf springs? Why isn't there a 'smug' emoticon!!!

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Frieman


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It is "the time" if you are willing to part with them. smile

John Frieman

frieman@aol.com



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Art


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Since starting this valuable thread I have done absolutly nothing with the car. However I do have my pipe organ playing!
Will try and get back on this project, as all the bits have been rebuilt and the body just needs to be fitted back to the frame!


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mikerf


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Frieman wrote:

It is "the time" if you are willing to part with them. smile

John Frieman

frieman@aol.com

 Not a chance. Might be persuaded to part with the old ones, though.



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Art


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We use Deaver Mfg here in Santa Ana, Ca. for leaf spring work.
Regards
ART
British Motor Service Inc.

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